Handbrake operation

I've always been taught to hold the button in whilst applying a handbrake to minimise ratchet were. The handbook for my recently acquired Fiesta states the button should *not* be depressed when applying it.

Thoughts?

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan
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Some handbrakes (recentish Mondeo for certain) have the hand brake tension applied to the brakes via a spring, so you just move the lever till it goes click and then you know its on, in its correct, pre-tension applied state.

Reply to
MrCheerful

There is also the possibility of the driver releasing the unlock button when the pawl is only just engaged on the top of a tooth, then a minor knock of the lever might disengage it, or it might disengage itself after a while.

Reply to
MrCheerful

So are you saying / suggesting one *shouldn't* (typically) hold the button in whilst applying the handbrake?

Also, if we are (still) talking about traditional non-pre-tensioned systems here, wouldn't it slipping back off the top of one notch only drop it into the root of the next (all be it potentially resulting with slightly less tension on the brakes)?

FWIW, I was *taught* to apply the handbrake silently and have done so ever since (~40 years so far) and I don't think I've ever had one them release and I know I've never worn out a ratchet system. ;-)

Hearing someone *not* use the button is to me like fingernails on chalk board to others (and not because I think it will ever wear the ratchet out particularly, just because it sounds so wrong). ;-(

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

*I'm* not - the Fiesta handbook is.

+1 - hence why I'm asking.

Yep, although when I tried that with the Fiesta it was almost silent.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

OK, didn't know that. It isn't how the Fiesta is however.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Sorry, I though the 'new system' only had an on / off position (so one 'notch') and you were talking of more than one etc.

Ok. ;-)

Interesting and fits in with my 'one notch' thought?

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

You can do what you want. I've run many ancient bangers over the years and never once had one with a worn out ratchet. Plenty with brake faults of various types, but never that.

However, if you want to be certain the ratchet is engaged, best to leave it up to that auto function. As that is how it is designed to work.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Well, yes, that's often the case but I was talking of what is generally considered 'best practice' here. ;-)

Quite, still not considering 'best practices' though.

;-)

Sure, if we are talking about that (I wasn't at that point).

I was really trying to get to grips with what MrC was saying and I was interested to see how a binary sprung-loaded system would have / need a multi-position ratchet when all it needed was one position (on / off) etc.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

No, it has an entirely conventional ratchet/pawl mechanism. You can feel each 'click' if you pull it up without pressing the button; it just doesn't make the horrible noise older cars do.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

If you only get to the first notch and it slips one tooth it will be completely off :)

I hold the button in till I feel resistance, release the button and pull it the next click or two as appropriate. (mind you I also leave my own cars in gear and with the wheel to the kerb, but not on customer's cars, they often do not even check for neutral and complain)

All foot operated handbrakes would be tricky to use with the hold the button/handle method, and they don't give trouble.

The days of worn out handbrake ratchets seem to be long gone, the last one I remember was on a Commer van with the lever on the driver's right, probably 40 years ago.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Ok, thanks Chris. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Hehe, I did think I hadn't included that specific scenario after I hit send on that last post. ;-)

Yup, that probably what I do, depending on the car (yes on the Meriva (disks all round, handbrake not very sharp), Mk2 Escort based kitcar, light tension has both back wheels locked up. ;-)

Ok.

Still time for the 1978 Escort based kitcar to fail then (if I don't continue to press the button). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m
[...]

I had one of those! It wasn't the best vehicle I've ever owned...

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

That's what every owners manual I own says.

1981 Nissan 910 Bluebird 1.8GL Graphic shows Pull to set Text To release the parking brake pull the brake lever upward slightly, depress the button and push the lever all the way down. 1984 Toyota Celica 2.0 XT To set: Pull up the lever. To release: Pull up slightly, press the thumb button and lower. Notes say for better holding power apply foot brake firmly when setting and check warning lamp before driving off. Drum rear brakes. 1990 Nissan 200SX To apply: pull the lever up To release: pull the lever up slightly, push the button and lower completely. Before driving be sure the parking brake warning light goes out.

Application of foot brake has no effect, as it has separate disc rear foot brake and 6" drum parking brake in the rotor hub. Just stops drunks pushing it around.

Reply to
Peter Hill

Thanks. None of them *specifically* say *don't* press the button during application, and that's what I've never seen in any vehicle handbook before.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Just press the button, pull up until it has a reasonable tension, release button and pull a little further for a single click.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

My 1983 Sierra based one is still going strong, even if it is a little behind yours.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

1) Do you press the button each time you apply it though ... ? 2) I still miss my 83 2L GL Estate. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Yep, I've been doing that for the last 53 years. ;-)

I was just interested in why Ford now thinks I shouldn't.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

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