A friend of mine has just bought a K-reg Impreza 2Ltr Turbo thingy, due to the thing running hot he suspects that there are air locks in the cooling system and thus needs to bleed the thing.
Not having actually paid for the car nor received any sorts of manuals he hasn't a clue where to start him being a wagon fitter rather than car mechanic.
A slightly more than cursory glance over gives no clues as to the presence of bleed points or alike
Does anyone have any experience in bleeding these engines?
Does he have a computer? Or can you use GOOGLE on his behalf? Better still, take it to a garage and let them fix it. No point trying to explain on here if you and your friend haven't got a clue as it will make matters worse. The engines in the Impreza are not that good - give them a thrashing and they break. The number of broken Imprezas from S to V reg I have seen is amazing. Once boy racers get them they don't last long and imports are generally on their last legs.
Nissan's inline turbo's CA18DET, SR20DET, RB2xDET(T) can and do take
100% power increase before internal bits have to be upgraded. With rods and pistons 3xstock power is an achievable target.
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Toyota 2JZ and 1JZ are also known for being able to run reliable massive power increases without internal mods.
What kills Japanese performance car engines is idiots that think they can get away with using the full performance but don't need to do pre-thrash checks, don't obey warm up and cool down procedures, don't change the oil and don't service them to the book. It didn't do Cossies any good either, lots of them lying around broke too, too good to scrap, too expensive or parts too hard find to fix. As for Lancia turbos, you won't have anything left to rebuild.
Flat engines have other problems
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even Porsche need fixing before full use of performance. Theowners have been taught to expect that performance costs money andjust pay up for rebuilds or repairs.http://www.autofarm.co.uk/new.php3/silsleeve.htmlOdd squish. Middle piston is clean except for a bit in the centre(vapour blasted by coolant from cracked bore?), LHS sorta brown andRHS very brown (not done many miles by the look of it). Squish wasnot working same on LHS/RHS cylinders of that engine. Here's a MazdaMX-5 engine that the squish works on with even piston colouration andpattern on all cylinders.http://www.miata.net/hakuna/port2mages/14563000.htmlLooks like Porshe don't pay as much attention to piston/deck height toset squish gap when building motors as Mazda do.-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!
They dont. I have a celica GT4 (3sgte engine) running approx 300hp and they are known to run to 350hp (stock@200) without change to the internals. But more modern engines are pushed to their extremes as standard, much like F1 engines - designed to last only so long and with only so many miles at high power. Thats how they get lighter and more efficient. To be quite honest the whole reason the japanese performance car import scene exists and is greater than that of any european/US scene is simply because they Japs know how to make a good and tunable engine that take a beating well, hence im not sure where you get your comments about breaking from.
Scoobypoos have poor build quality throughout - you get what you pay for.
Could be a number of things. I'm not sure on the exact engine but a lot of jap engines dont require bleeding the traditional sense - mine (3sgte) for example bleeds itself if you leave the rad cap off and let it heat up - theres no other bleed mechanism on the cooling system and the top of the rad is the highest point.
It could, however, be indicative of a blown head gasket - especially if it comes when he has just put his foot down and clears a little later - indicative of the HG allowing gasses to pass into the coolant when the turbo is at full whack. If he bleeds it and it comes back then this could be the cause.
But really if he cant find the bleed mechanism he shouldnt be workig on a car without manuals at the very least - even my missus managed to bleed her own coolant system without the aid of a manual, though she is quite techy by nature.
My fault really he said he didnt know if there was a bleeding system nipple type things etc...
Well done that man.... In the daylight thats pretty much what he did, once the car got nice and toasty and warm a little pin prick of water squirted from a small 3" pipe at the bottom of the engine.
He found that the car appriciated being filled with water very slowley too.
Probably my description not doing him justice, he didnt want to go screwing it up for want of having asked someone where the bleed nipple things are.
I don't much about the car but it is one of them with the almost horizontal engine? - to my eyes anyway.
Glad hes found teh source of the trouble (pin prick). The horizontal (and it is) is the twin opposed boxer engine - two heads, two inlet manifolds, two exhausts and one crankshaft in the middle.
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