copper slip on brakes.

I like to use it, yes.

Clue: *not* the friction surfaces.

Yea it stops squeaky brakes.

Put a good, thick layer on the part of the pads that touches the disk...

No. I only use it if needed. Brake squeal etc. Otherwise it doesn't do much good. No harm either.

if so on which surfaces should it be

Back of the pad. both sides of the shim. Mike.

Either you're being facetious, or it's a typo. Either way I don't think it's wise to post such advice. Some idiot might believe you. Mike.

The message from "Stuart Rose" contains these words:

No and selectively.

I find it useful for the bolts that go into the backs of wheel cylinders and calipers, handy sometimes for the area where the pad slides along the caliper as they wear, and apply a smear to the bleed nipple and pipe union, taking care not to get it on the areas the fluid will be in contact with. While you're on the wheels area, I also use it on the screws that secure discs to hubs and on the seating where the disc/hub/drum fit into the hole in the middle of the wheel 'cos that siezes sometimes.

Where you /don't/ want it:- Anywhere with a bearing race[1]. Anywhere it might get onto a brake fluid seal. Anywhere it might get onto the friction surfaces.

Where you /might/ want it, according to taste and experience:- I use it on wheel studs 'cos I believe I have sufficient experience to be able to tighten a wheelnut to a suitable tightness with it slightly coppaslipped. Many people say this isn't right, and that it interferes with the ability to correctly torque the wheelnuts. Personally I've done it like that for what probably amounts to over a million vehicle miles and never had a stud shear through over tightening or come loose through being underdone. However - I've also never had trouble getting the nuts off in the pouring rain on a cold windswept roadside in the dark with a pathetic wheelbrace. You might want to use it on self-adjusters. I've not had trouble with it attracting dust, but some people say it does.

[1] The finely divided copper powder is deadly to bearing races. Under the extreme pressures developed inside ballbearing races the copper particles can get welded together to form increasingly large clumps which eventually do a "Wet leaves on the track" and make the balls skid instead of turning. You don't need a lot of imagination to guess what happens next.

I was kidding :) Are there really people stupid enough to beleive that? Ok, good point :)

Disclaimer - DO NOT PUT COPPER SLIP ON THE FRICTION PART OF YOUR BRAKE PADS.

beleive

Indeed. You get far better results from putting it on the brake disc itself.

cheers, clive

I have indeed seen it happen. An old boy let an apprentice fit some pads, and found out the hard way as he careered across the mini roundabout at the bottom of the hill!

On the back of disc pads, and either side of any shims that go behind the disc pads.

Sometimes people use a good dollop on the caliper slide bolts - personally I'd use a caliper grease instead. Copper grease seems to clog things up..

Ever wonder why you get brake calipers that seize? Clue..corrosion and s**te between the pad and the slider.

Oh and you really should put it on the face that the wheel is in contact with if you have alloys as it saves you having to use a sledgehammer to get your wheel off due to corrosion.

In message , Chris writes

I prefer to leave the slide pins clean and dry. Bearing in mind that copper grease is really for static anti-seize applications, it will cause wear if used in sliding contact applications.

Hi There

Think about it!, if they need to ask then they wont know any difference.

The message from "Steve Sweet" contains these words:

Not for long, anyway.

Copper grease is an anti-seize compound. Not a lubricant.

I've never had that problem. I can only imagine it occurs if if the rust is not cleaned off that area of the caliper, every time new pads are fitted. As for the sliders of floating calipers, I clean them and use HMP grease to relubricate.

What sort of cars do you run? I've never experienced that either. Didcs and brake drums certainly, but never wheels. Mike.

The message from "Mike G" contains these words:

It does happen from time to time. The hole in the middle of the wheel is sometimes a really snug fit. You're right though - it's great for stopping discs and drums seizing to the hub.

My first big hammer was bought for precisely that reason - after having a wheel bearing changed on my Maestro, I couldn't get the wheel off without hitting it hard. And no, it wasn't rust, just rather tight.

cheers, clive

In news:416b3683$0$54821$ snipped-for-privacy@ptn-nntp-reader01.plus.net, Clive George decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

"My first big hammer".. I can just see the Fisher Price box now, picture of a bloke tw@ting a Maestro wheel on the cover..

"Also available - The great big f*ck off hammer"