My fifteen year old Toyota Corolla 1.3 GLI has done 110 thousand miles and has taken to burning some oil. I thought that now it's getting really old, I would just top up with 'new' oil rather than pay for complete oil changes.
Since I'm thinking of doing this, would it still be worth getting
*semi-synthetic* oil or just go for a cheap normal oil such as you can get from Tescos and Asda Supermarkets.Any suggestions on a good 'value for money' oil I can buy in London would be welcome. Thanks.
In terms of litres per x no of miles, how much oil is it using?
Chris
it is never a good idea to do as you suggest as the old pony that engines produce will get concentrated and wear the engine even faster. By all means allow it to run a little lower than normal towards the time for an oil change, but do not stop the oil changes unless you just want it to run till it dies. oil is cheap, engines are not.
1) Check that the car is not just leaking oil.
2) I wouldn't touch supermarket oils with a barge pole.
3) Use the oil type as specified for the car. I don't think it needs semi-synth.4) Complete oil change is necessary to remove deposits.
5) Cost of oil/miles is dwarfed by cost of fuel/miles.6) A Toyota Corolla can run forever.
I drive a Nissan, 20 years old and 115k on the clock. Been in the family since new, oil always changed at home with Castro TX. Has never used a drop!
I mean GTX!
and Castrol
Is that the well known Cuba oil? :)
Amazing how that oil can shape itself into useful tools, as seen on TV :)
Why not? If you check the can I think you'll find it meets the same SAE/DOT etc specs as many a more expensive brand.
Or do you know something the rest of us don't?
Steve
No, I'm the usual ignorant pig: "Just Say No". It's my money anyway, so I can be as prejudiced as I like.
I did say: "3) Use the oil type as specified for the car.", so if your oil has the required ACEA level, then it's fine.
However, my car need fully synth, not likely found on supermarket shelves.
My several Nissans I've owned haven't used a drop in 31 yrs, highest mileage one was 180k and they all performed the same(ish) as new. I thought Toyotas did the same?
Please god, no.
The oil filter will still get clogged up, starving the engine of oil and killing it.
Anything of the right weight, i.e 10/40, whatever.
Cheap old 20W50 from the supermarket or off ebay will do. You don't need any special oil. If you start using synthetic or semi synthetic you will only cause problems. Don't use engine flushes either.
It's burning it. Due to engine wear. expensive fix.
Why, you probably pay over the top for brand names when they are all made by the same companies.
Not on a 15year old car it doesn't.
It doesn't remove deposits, it changes the oil. Flushing the engine is the only way to remove deposits and on a car that old it's quite a risky thing to do. It will probably make it worse. Change of filter is the best idea as that traps a lot of bits.
That depends on how much he is using. Some NEW cars use up to 1litre per 1000miles and tat is within the manufcturers tolerance levels. I say it's poor design.
No it can't. You make some silly claims.
Clive, come and work for me. I need a mechanic who doesn't need to see a car to diagnose faults.
Wow, you do pricing too. Perfect, when can you start? I have a lot of work for you.
Ah, you just blew the interview. Shame that. I thought you knew what you were talking about until you said that. Now it's obvious you're clueless.
>
An engine can get through oil without wear being the primary cause. Could be leaking - which should be obvious - or have blocked crankcase breathers causing oil to be forced past the rings or valve seals.
Oil specifications are on the container. Make sure it matches or exceeds the original spec. Supermarket oils could well be suitable. But *don't* stop changing it as per the service schedule. Topping up isn't the same.
That will be 10w40.
With semi synth like Morris Multivis 10w40 at £12 to £13 for 5L is it really worth buying straight mineral oil? It's competitive £/L against Tesco.
Due to fairly low oil volume on most Jap motors it's best to keep oil level up over 1/2 way on dip stick. It reduces number of laps of the engine the oil has to do and gives it longer in the sump to cool off. By keeping oil cooler it will reduce burn rate.
I remember I had a Sierra once which I did an oil change on not long before it went to the scrappy.. (It sprang a catastrophic oil leak for some reason which I can't remember !) Stupid really but it's still cheap compared to other things you have to do to keep a car on the road. Since then, when my cars a ready to die I try to leave the oil change. My Pug. 306 has just gone to it's maker and would have been due a change !My previous 2 Hondas also had strong engines when they went to car heaven. If you are going to get more life out of it then change the oil, just for the fun of it even !
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