Fiesta 1.25 Zetec Engine Problems - Help Needed

Why did you get the belt replaced on an engine with only 29 k on it?

mrcheerful

It made sense to replace the belt (cost =A318) as I could not be sure that the engine had covered only 29K. The engine was very clean inside, which is consistent with the stated mileage by the salvage company.

the engine has come from a accident damage vehicle (i'm guessing a front end damage) check the sensors very close to the raditor MAF and TPS these may be damaged , also check the inlet manifold for cracks

The Salvage company advised that the damage was rear end. Where exactly are the MAF & TPS sensors, thanks

Book it into a garage, but don't tell them the history. Just say it's not running very well, and you want a diagnostic check done on it.

ok the MAF(mass air flow)is on the intake trunking. the TPS(trottle position sensor) is on the trottle body

how ever is this engine from exactly the same month and year ?/same features? it may just need a PCM reproggrame from the dealer

The ECU from the previous car will be of no use to you as it has the immobilizer built in and with your current keys wouldnt allow the car to start.

Without examining the car, on the face of it you either have a MAF problem or leak on the inlet manifold somewhere which is admitted unmeter-ed air, leaving the fuelling rather weak / incorrect.

However, it could be down to another fault caused by poor installation / butchery from the engine fitters which could take some time to find.

Start by having the cam timing checked properly, then any fault codes read, then cleared. Drive the car abit and then see which codes (if any) have returned. Do NOT consider any initial codes as gospel, unless the same ones re-appear, as they were probably cuased by the the fitters playing about with it.

Tim..

Check the easy stuff, look at all the pipework for splits, cracks or ill fitting. Vacuum hoses cause grief if they leak, usually causes excessive lumpy idle, erratic revving when the throttle is depressed and stalling. ECUs don't tend to cause that sort of problem - they either work or they don't. The ECU off the old car will be useless anyway as it has the key code for the old car programmed causing the immobiliser to kick in. My money is on an air leak as mentioned, not expensive if you locate it yourself, but garages may charge a fortune in labour hunting for it.

Thanks for all your help. I'll certainly check the easy stuff first. Thanks once again

when a ecu is loses its power supply the idling codes have to be reset by using a computer or if this is the case try driving the car for a few days and the codes should reset themselves