Make sure there is plenty of oil, rather than sludge in it, lower the
compression, either by removing the injectors or glow plugs or blocking
the inlet, spin it over till the oil light goes out, then start it.
If it possible to spin up the oil pump without the engine turning, I'd do
that first (it's easy on some designs of engine). To make sure it has
primed and is moving oil around. If you can get access to the bores, put
some oil into them, and spin over before starting.
*I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing *
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
When I part-exchanged a low mileage Peugeot 205 diesel a number of years ago
the dealer left it parked up for a few months, maybe waiting for the age to
catch up with the miles. When they re-started it the timing belt snapped. I
don't know if this was just bad luck (good luck for me!), or maybe the
camshaft was stiff because all the oil had drained into the sump?
On 19/02/2017 13:16, Al wrote:
<snip> > 2. Squirt 50cc of engine oil into each of the bores using a large syringe.
Ouch, are you sure you mean 50cc?
5-10cc maybe, and even then I would want a very short spin or turn over
by hand to spread the oil over the whole bore.
I might also prefer to remove glow plus rather than injectors, and
inject any oil through this orifice.
On Sun, 19 Feb 2017 16:36:30 +0000, Fredxxx wrote:
Sounds like a pretty sure way to *wreck* an engine!
Yes, it's a good idea to get some oil into the bores, but not *that* much!
Diesel engines have very little clearance between the crown of the piston
and the cylinder head, so I would guess 50cc of oil (incompressible) is
far more than the available capacity at TDC. You'd better hope the
battery is on the way out or something is going to break. Al's assumption
that the oil would drain away over 2 days is an assumption too far to my
mind. Thin oil, quite possibly; engine oil.... I doubt it.
Once you have got the engine turning by hand, spin it for a while on the
starter *with the injectors and/or glow plugs removed*. I should have
added that to my earlier post.
With the proviso that you don't want a hydraulic lock, you want as much
oil as possible on the pistons, rings, and bores when you start running,
Does it turn "by hand", as it were? One thing which can happen is for
the piston rings to rust in the bore. My personal fix for that would be
to add a generous dose of thin oil (not necessarily penetrating oil),
perhaps 100 ml per cylinder, and leave it for a while, ideally weeks.
And then make sure the engine can be turned (spanner on crankshaft,
rolling car in gear, etc) before doing anything else. Obviously, with a
diesel you would need to remove the injectors (much easier with a petrol
engine!). You might need more oil if the cylinders are inclined, the
point is you want the whole top of the piston covered.
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