Gasless mig wire just arrived

I've never used CO2. Just argon or argon/CO2 mix.

Stick is still very common in the construction and heavy engineering industry where the use of mig is limited because of the need to hump gas bottles and deeper penetration of weld is needed

Thanks for the replies guys.

So, 'gassless MIG' (good 'outside') should solve the humping problem so then it's just the depth_of_weld that's left (as MIG produces a more reliable weld as seen by scans etc)?

I wonder if they do the range of wire as they do with sticks. A mate gave me a welding rod the other day that (apparently) allowed you to rebuild a sprocket or gear tooth (very hard material).

I've got a little job to do that requires welding some nuts on the back of some angle (tie-down eyebolts to go inside a trailer) and I'm not sure if I do some very small tacks and cool each with a damp rag I might do so and be able to use a Nylock nut?

Cheers, T i m

Thanks for the replies guys.

So, 'gassless MIG' (good 'outside') should solve the humping problem so then it's just the depth_of_weld that's left (as MIG produces a more reliable weld as seen by scans etc)?

I wonder if they do the range of wire as they do with sticks. A mate gave me a welding rod the other day that (apparently) allowed you to rebuild a sprocket or gear tooth (very hard material).

I've got a little job to do that requires welding some nuts on the back of some angle (tie-down eyebolts to go inside a trailer) and I'm not sure if I do some very small tacks and cool each with a damp rag I might do so and be able to use a Nylock nut?

Cheers, T i m

I normally use an aerotight nut for that.

I doubt it but there are all-metal Philidas locking nuts like the rocker nuts on the Ford CVH engine which would work. I've got dozens of old ones if an 8mm thread would do you. They're flanged ones like these.

I could nip the flanges off on the lathe if that would help but you could just weld round the flange anyway.

Ah, those, ta.

I've found them on stuff but never bought any.

So, do they actually 'lock' in use or would they allow something like said eyebolt to be removed by hand would you think please? I was looking for some resistance to stop them undoing if in the trailer and unused but to be removable by hand if they were in the way.

Cheers, T i m

Thanks very much for the offer Dave but these are 10mm x summat.

Ah, ok. So they would provide resistance that could be overcome by hand on a 40mm diameter eyebolt ring would you think please?

Indeed (but thanks again).

Cheers, T i m

It depends which ones you buy, but they're only slightly tighter than a nyloc.

Ok, thanks, I'll see if my local fasteners place stocks or can get them.

Looks like you can get them on eBay (in M10).

But only in stainless (not sure about welding) and they are more expensive than the eyebolts I bought!

Cheers, T i m

They work just like nylocs. You torque them up normally and the "crimped" end provides resistance against vibration loosening. I'm getting the feeling you want the eyebolt to swivel but still not come completely undone. If so then these aren't the right things for the job.

What's to stop you tightening the eyebolt with a bar through the eye rather than just by hand? That would apply sufficient torque to stop them undoing and a Philidas type nut would be fine for such use.

[...]

They work pretty much like a Nyloc.

However, both types of stiffnut are designed as "use once" items, so appear totally unsuited to your application. Methinks you need a new design!

Chris

Agreed. The Philidas nuts retain some vibration loosening control after a few uses but eventually any type of Nyloc or similar nut just conforms to the bolt thread and stops working. If the eyebolts are to be removed and refitted on a regular basis then just use normal nuts and torque the eyebolts up properly each time with a stout bar through the eye. A decent pull on a 1 foot extension bar out of a 1/2" drive socket set will apply the required 30/35 foot lbs easily enough.

Another option is to drill the protuding end of the eyebolts for a cotter pin or spring pin, fit them loosely and rely on the pin to stop them coming right out.

Nothing other than I was trying to make it more of an impromptu thing than that (not requiring any tools etc).

As would then a std nut. ;-(

I've bought this little (5x3) galv steel trailer s/h for our daughter to have up in Scotland to tow behind the Corsa we've just bought off her b/f's Dad. I bought one of those because they are light, rather than the over engineered / heavy solution I would probably build given the chance. She will be mainly using it to carry her smaller chainsaw carvings, anything bigger would be moved in his HiLux.

The 'chassis' is pretty light (press galv steel) and therefore you wouldn't want to put a strap round the trailer for pulling in the sides too much. And again, because it is quite lightly built I was going to fix some small bits of angle to the existing main construction bolts inside the 'C' section chassis and drill through the trailer floor, angle and mount the nuts under that (so the eyebolts are attached to the floor and chassis section but without drilling any extra holes in the chassis).

However, there may be times when these eyebolts would be in the way and they might just like to unscrew them to provide a flat floor but that might be somewhere where they don't have time to muck about with tools etc.

Soo, if there was a way they could be screwed in by hand but that there was a reasonable chance they wouldn't just work their way out if not actually doing anything (if there was a strap or rope through them they wouldn't come out) then that would be the ideal solution. Maybe just plain nut welded underneath and a drop of Loctite or paint on the bolt thread now and again (and allowed to dry before re-inserting) to make them a bit more resistant would be sufficient.

However, there's a good chance they would stay in all the time and only be removed as and when so a suitable tommy bar / old screwdriver left in the boot might do it.

And I've got a draw of plain M10 nuts in the workshop. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Blimey makes rs look cheap

Aerotights generally last until they go rusty.

Yeah, I saw them (probably easier to weld than stainless and would be painted over anyway) but even 20+ quid for 50 is more money than I wanted to spend on the project, especially if they aren't the ideal solution

I've dry fitted one of the middle eyebolts tonight and following the other advice given here I might now go with std Nylocks as you can actually get to the nut fairly easily and with a suitable (cheapo / market) spanner at hand it would be fairly easy to remove (based in the idea that it probably won't need to be removed very often). I might be able to put a crinkle washer underneath and /just/ nip the nut up enough to allow the eyebolt to /just/ be turned, that way it might be enough to turn it through 90 deg and (slightly more) out of the way.

I can also position a pair at the rear corners and they would be shielded by the tailgate pillars and similar at the front (ie, they could probably be left in most the time and could be remove easily even with std Nylocks).

Once that's done I can fix the plastic mudguards better (in more places) and then re-bearing (with better bearings) the hubs then it should be going back up with them to Scotland after the weekend. ;-)

Oh, I might put a bit of rubber matting on the bottom to stop stuff sliding about on the steel so easily (cap head stainless screws and penny washers in the bottom of the floor ridges). Cheers, T i m

Bend/weld a bit of metal into the right size U that the nut can't rotate & weld that in, no spanner needed :-) Pinch it up with a pair of molegrips after you've fitted the nut.