Lubricant/Fluid Manufacturers.

I've always tended to use what I consider 'quality' oils, fluids etc when servicing my cars. I've tended to favour Castrol (I appreciate
others have their preferences for oil) and Halfords- both seem to have served me well. However, I'd happily use, say Mobil, but I'd stay clear of some of the (what until today, I considered the 'cheaper' brands). Much the same 'rules' applied when I needed things like brake fluid, antifreeze etc.
However, an experience today has caused some 'confusion'. I need some brake fluid. Caps on the vehicles say DOT 4. I look on Halfords and see several brands, I look at the info for several as the details on the expensive one seem a bit vague. It seems there are 'better' DOT 4 fluids in the cheaper brands, at least in their blurb. The price is a factor, we are talking a few pounds but I'm concerned re mixing the old with the new (or more exactly what will be left of the old, there is bound to be a trace, and seals etc). I contact the helpline for the EXPENSIVE ONE.
I give them the vehicle details, they recommend the CHEAP ONE! I double check they are the helpline for the EXPENSIVE BRAND and I am informed they supply both! Note, this helpline isn't Halfords! I check again, and am informed they supply several 'brands'. Neither in this case was an own brand- obviously I wasn't expecting, say, Halfords to make their own oil etc.
I'm not suggesting anything untoward is going on. I was just surprised that the 'cheap stuff' was supplied by the famous company.
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<snip>

Isn't it often the case these days that for 'std vehicles', even the cheapest (which may not be the nastiest) is good enough and often above the minimum required spec?
I have seen the markups on some of this stuff (I am friends with various shops and garages) and it can differ wildly, not only down to the brand but what 'specials' might be on offer (from the wholesaler or distributor) often down to taking a certain quantity, taking prime position in their sales displays or selling just one range of products.
It's like many 'own brand' products you see in the supermarkets or the tool suppliers ... most come from the same factory and may just be value added via the use of a known badge. ;-)
Re oils .. I will generally use either what I can get at the best price (for all our std vehicles) or will look for what is 'best recommended' if it's something more specialised. Often the small print will suggest it was actually produced by one of the big brands (and possibly be the same stuff) in a cheaper looking tin / name.
A mate recently ordered what he thought was one tin of a generic looking grease and found later he'd ordered a case by mistake. He kindly gave me a can and I noted the small print said it was produced for or by one of the 'Big names'.
My old BMW motorbikes use 6 different grades of fluids (front forks, engine, gearbox, prop shaft, bevel drive and brake hydraulics) and because I want it to last and don't put millions of miles on it, I may splash out for whatever the high mileage enthusiasts (not the couriers <>) suggest is 'best' (which isn't always the most expensive).
I think Comma oils are the cheapest in our local car spares suppliers and Morris for most of the motorbike engines (mostly because I can often get it at trade). ;-)
Similar when one of the local car parts or main dealers are doing a special on engine oils (like if you buy 5 cases etc).
You can afford to change a cheaper oil more often, if it's something that dirties the oil up very quickly (like my old Rover 218SD).
Cheers, T i m
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On 02/07/2018 13:21, Brian Reay wrote:

You should not be surprised by that.
I am pretty sure that for hydraulic fluids, the different manufacturers will have the same policy as the lube oil suppliers.
They are *very* careful particularly for automotive oils that "their" additive package won't be incompatible with those from any other supplier of grades which could get mixed with it during topping up. The additives pretty much all come from one or two specialist companies. Whilst there's quite a bit of secrecy about exact formulations, the main companies all have excellent analytical chemistry facilities so they have a pretty good idea of what competitors are using. I wouldn't be surprised if there is some sort of gentleman's agreement not to use products which could lead to compatibility problems (maybe brokered by a trade body).
There is one type of synthetic oil (poly alkylene glycol, PAG) which doesn't mix with mineral oil or the more common synthetic poly alpha olefin (PAO). But PAG isn't used in automotive applications.
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wrote:

Not in the sump but it is in the aircon where it uses R134a refrigerant
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On 02/07/2018 23:41, The Other Mike wrote:

Yes good point. But of course no danger of mixing with mineral oil!
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On 7/3/2018 4:24 PM, newshound wrote:

There is if you have a new air con system with CO2 (Merc since 2017) or very old with R12. They can both transport all types of oil. All it needs is some car maker to work out that mineral oil is a lot cheaper than PAG and can be used with CO2 which is also cheap.
The other new even more expensive gas R1234yf requires a higher spec PAG that costs 3-5x. If you have an accident that vents the refrigerant 40% of the oil exits with it. If replaced/topped-up with the wrong grade compressor life will be reduced.
Just to bugger me up it seems Nissan used PAG in late R12 systems when every man and his dog knows that R12 used mineral. Now I need to find out if the desiccant is compatible with R134a.
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On 03/07/2018 19:37, Peter Hill wrote:

OK OK. And you *could* put engine oil in with the brake fluid. But not a particularly likely error.
When I had a summer job in a garage in the 1960's I just managed to stop a young lady on the forecourt putting petrol into the oil filler cap of a Renault Dauphine (IIRC the petrol filler might also have been in the engine compartment at the rear).
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On 06/07/2018 22:58, newshound wrote:

as a child I put engine oil in the air inlet of a boat diesel engine, customers cars I have seen with screen wash in the power steering.
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On Sat, 07 Jul 2018 07:56:26 +0100, MrCheerful wrote:

And was that the owner who did that or some awful garage?
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On 02/07/2018 13:21, Brian Reay wrote:

I don't care as long as it's Fully Synth oil. Frequent oil+filter changes are more important than brand name.
Hehe, I discovered that I always did filter change the wrong way by pouring oil into the filter. Apparently, this is the wrong idea because that oil don't get filtered.
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On 08/07/2018 03:50, johannes wrote:

If your new oil needs filtering, then you are in trouble anyway.
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On 08/07/2018 07:20, MrCheerful wrote:

Yeah, I've always poured oil into the filter the usual and make sure to smear the rubber ring. But some gurus on internet saz that's the wrong way...
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On 08/07/2018 08:42, johannes wrote:

prefilling the filter is fine, the idea is to minimise the time the engine turns before the oil is pressurised and flowing, you can also reduce the wear at first start after an oil change by taking out the plugs (you should, ideally, disable injection and sparks, just in case) and spinning it over till the oil pressure comes up.
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On 08/07/2018 09:03, MrCheerful wrote:

Yeah, turning the engine over with sparkplugs removed, the highly volatile air/fuel mix is sent out through the sparkplug holes.
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On 08/07/2018 09:20, johannes wrote:

there will not be any if you disconnect the injectors first (as I recommended above). or just power the starter remotely (then all the running gubbins will be unpowered)
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Most injection system will have a main relay somewhere. Just unplug that.
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On 08/07/2018 10:45, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It's only a whiff of fuel that comes out per stroke, I've never seen any sign of a problem in the fifty-odd years that I've been doing things like this.
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On 08/07/2018 13:03, newshound wrote:

me too, but if it isn't mentioned then someone will get a faceful or set it alight.
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On 08/07/2018 13:30, MrCheerful wrote:

An RAC man once mentioned this was a problem
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On 08/07/2018 15:16, johannes wrote:

Mandy Rice Davies?
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