Mondeo engine out (2.0lt 16v Zetec with Air con)

Hi I'm new to this forum, and would just like to ask one small Question.......

My wife has just put a hole through piston number 3 how much aggro is it to drop the engine out. Is it best to have the car standing level on the ground and lift the body up and over the lump and roll it back or raise the front on axle stands and drop the sub fame down on a winch.

How high do I need to get the car? Is it best to undo the stuts at the top or separate the ball joins at the bottom? (I only had the tracking done last week) Does the steering all come down with the sub frame? Can I get away not draining the Air Con? Is it a 2 man job or can I do it on my own....?

I'm not just the run of the mill DIY spanner guy, I have been working on cars and vans for 25+ years but this is the first time I've had to take a Mondeo engine out and would like a few words from someone that has done it before. And any what not to do points if possible.

Thanks

Gaz

Reply to
reevco62
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I've not done it either, but from the way you have to drop the front subframe to change the clutch I'd suspect you'd need to do at least that for an engine swap..

Reply to
PC Paul

~I've not done it before, but have seen it done.

The engine and box and steering rack need to come down complete on the front subframe. Easiest is to splt the bottom ball joints, and pull back the drive shafts and leave the hubs and struts on the car.

The car needs to be on a 2 post lift with a strut-to-strut top hoist. When you are ready to drop it, the car is lowered to the ground, some blocks put under the subframe, and then the remaining bolts removed and the top hoist released. Then raise the car up minus the engine and box. Becarful the new weight balance doesnt make the car tip backwards on the 2 poster! (seen that too)

It needs to come up about 3 foot to clear the engine.

The a/c compressor will just about tie back out of the way, pipes connected- do not let any weight of the comp hang on the pipes. The alternator needs to come off also.

Then split the engine and 'box etc etc.

When you put the box back on to the engine, be *very* careful you dont trap the wiring loom at the back, and also that you properly re-cable tie it around the coil pack area so it doesnt drop down and melt on the EGR pipework.

You will need the proper alignment pins for re-assembly. I would expect to do a tracking check after re-assemlby, as it will never go back in quite the same place.

Hope this helps alittle.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Ah hah!! This explains why otherwise good Mondeo's sell so cheapy when the clutch is slipping. Sounds a hell of a job. As I'm looking for a 97-99 mondeo at moment, I will pay special attention to the clutch make a point of asking if there is any info to prove when last done. Either that or stick to the trusty Sierra.

Graham

Reply to
Graham Harvest

Thanks Tim but I don't have a two post lift I just have the front up on axle stands. I have got it up to around two and a half foot. I have a gantry and winch to lift and lower engine and sub frame, but a little worried about refitting as car has nose in the air and at an angle.

It sounds as if the car needs to be flat and level to refit sub frame, will I need to get the back up level to drop the sub frame?

So the way to go is to crack the ball joints and bottom knuckle joint (Dam!!!!!! These are all new only just done them and wish bones before I had the tracking done last week.) If only I knew the engine was going to blow up the following week......

Good new about the A/C though had visions of having to have it degassed.

Have been looking at alignment tools on the net today seem a to be reasonably priced so will order one on line tonight.

May have to weld up some extra high axle stands at the weekend. And get the back of the car up on to my heavy duty van ramps.

Thanks Tim it helped alot.

Reply to
reevco62

You have more bottle than me, i wouldnt attempt it without a lift!!!!!!

The car must be somewhere near level to refit the subframe, simply because the engine / box wont 'slide' back up inside the engine bay without catching unless it is!! You will need a couple of jacks under the subframe to manipulate it anyhow.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

The engine / box doesnt need to come right out of the car to do the clutch, but it must be dropped part way, more on one side, to give enough room for the box to come back past the chassis rail enough to get at the clutch.

A properly done clutch on a mondy is in the £400 region.

Tim. .

Reply to
Tim..

In other words, its probably time for the scrap yard on a 97-99 mondeo. £400 is about half the value of the car.

Reply to
Graham Harvest

Well I've got my super size commercial van ramps out of my old garage at my mums, that was a job in itself, they haven't seen the light of day for eight years and where down in my dads old maintenance pit with an old Rover V8 engine sitting on top of them, so should get the back end of the car a good 2.5ft in the air, will get on with making some extra high axle stands at the weekend so I can get car up to 3ft at the front. Oh I picked up a set of alignment tools for =A319.99 got my local parts shop to match the Internet price of =A319.99 but forgot to say anything about postage cost of a fiver.

Will let you know How I get on with the job as I go but I'm not rushing it, just do a bit each day as I get the time for it.

Got wheels/drip tray off Got the air intake and battery off Got all wires off and labeled them all yesterday. Drained Rad and taken hoses off. Took exhaust pipe off comp ( Wow easy or what !!!!!! ) Taken off petrol pipes. Have had a look at selector cables and looked at hydraulics to clutch (and scratched my head still to do this. Will need to dig out the Haynes manual me thinks, if I can find it that is.)

Gaz

Reply to
reevco62

Well engine is out.

Opted to take it out via the top (Yes it will come out this way.) and not by dropping the subframe, I was surprised just how easy it came out, had worse with minis, just hope getting it back in, is as easy.

I just have one small problem one of the head bolts won't undo. I have a new T50 bit and it's been fine on the other 9 bolts, but it just keeps jumping out of this one bolt. the bolt looks ok but just can't get a grip. Any idea what next?

(Drill the head off the bolt???????????) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply to
reevco62

Got an impact driver?

Or you could try doing it up a touch first - that can break the stiction enough to make a difference?

Reply to
PC Paul

And fir T50 bit firmly then give it an almighty wallop wiht a 4lb lump hammer.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

Post corrected.

Reply to
SteveH

---------------------------------------------------------

I'm a prat, I tried a T55 and thought it was to big so used a T50 which seemed to fit OK, It was only when I gave the T55 bit a lite tap with a hammer it fitted snug and tight so tight I couldn't get the bolt off the bit, and had to tap it off.

Finally got the head off and found the engine had dropped a valve and smashed though a piston,

Just wondering where I now stand as I only changed the valves two months ago, I fitted 16 new valves, and fitted a new cam-belt in all spending around =A3400 on the engine. even fitted a new water pump at the same time.

The valve snapped at the lower collet ring, dropping down on to the piston wrecking the piston and the head, it's also cracked the piston lining, Does anyone know if the linings can be renewed in this engine, if not then the engine is scrap.

Have I got claim against the manufacturers of the valves.......?????

Gaz

Reply to
reevco62

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

I'm a prat, I tried a T55 and thought it was to big so used a T50 which seemed to fit OK, It was only when I gave the T55 bit a lite tap with a hammer it fitted snug and tight so tight I couldn't get the bolt off the bit, and had to tap it off.

Finally got the head off and found the engine had dropped a valve and smashed though a piston,

Just wondering where I now stand as I only changed the valves two months ago, I fitted 16 new valves, and fitted a new cam-belt in all spending around £400 on the engine. even fitted a new water pump at the same time.

The valve snapped at the lower collet ring, dropping down on to the piston wrecking the piston and the head, it's also cracked the piston lining, Does anyone know if the linings can be renewed in this engine, if not then the engine is scrap.

Have I got claim against the manufacturers of the valves.......?????

Gaz

Only if you can PROVE beyond reasonable doubt that the valve had a fault in manufacture. The costs involved will preclude this, especially in view of the low values involved, different if it was an aero engine or something.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

If I wanted rust I would get a Cortina least I could get the engine out in an hour. Oh the good old days.........

I've picked up a good engine from the scrappy heard it running sounds lovely =A3175 just got to get time to drop the lump in now.

Reply to
reevco62

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