ABS light - MOT fail?

Yes

if it does not come on with ignition it fails if it stays on whilst the engine is running it fails

Not neccesarily a failure if the light stays on with the engine running. Some cars are designed that the ABS light stays on until the vehicle moves and has reached a certain speed.

The ABS light has got to do what it says on the MOT chart.

Nah. Mines not supposed to be on....

Choice now is take it to Dealer (Hyundai) or buy a cable and software off ebay?

Depends how confident you are. You could buy the kit of ebay, and then still have to take it to a dealer, or at least somewhere with suitable kit....

Tony

Tony

Sneaky bastards! So you can't just take the bulb out then? ;)

Si

You could try wiring it to the charge warning light. Assuming you alternator is OK of course.

Steve

Rip the dash apart, cut wire to ABS unit and wire the ABS light to the oil pressure light.

Depends. Given it's probably just a sensor the cables probably way cheaper.

If the mot tester was doing their job properly, they wouldn't start the car when checking ABS on the majority of vehicles.

The big thing there being the 'if'.

Which major garage chain did you work for agian?

Kwik-Fit

Doesn't work - they'll find out! (tried it many years ago....)

The MOT test says that the light should operate as intended so if it comes on when the ignition is switched on and goes out when the engine is running (and that is how abs light on that vehicle is supposed to work) then that meets the test requirements I know of a Renault Megane that passed its last MOT like that

It is not within the scope of the test to check the wiring

Whether it was safe is another matter but it now has a new ABS and is properly wired again

It is not within the scope of the test to check the wiring

Tony

But it would (probably) tell you that there's a dodgy ring/sensor, and hopefully which one.

The light does operate as intended. The ABS system is faulty and the light says so therefore its working as intended.

Nah. I work in Aerospace industry. Bit's I do are powder forged nickel superalloy, run 12,000 rpm, about 600mm diameter, 700°C at rim, have

We know it's going to break. The art is knowing WHEN. Then we can get the bit back before it does break.

As a student I did have a summer job servicing Green Goddesses after the fireman's strike.

I can get instrument cluster out of my car in under 10min. 5 screws hold lower cover, 4 on the steering column cover, 2 the instrument surround and 3 the instruments themselves, wiggle it out and undo 3 plugs. Had to replace oddometer stepper motor. Was very sad that I had to get one from a scrap car. The motor I salvaged from an old broken Amstrad DMP-2000 printer fitted and worked until I put instruments back fully then I found it fouled on the steering column support, trimed shaft off back end but it still fouled. (Yeah I should have wacked support with a hammer to put a flat on it and made some space but there wasn't room to swing a cat in there)

So, in a way, did PC Paul, as did I until claimed by the motorway network.

I never thought I'd miss the heady stink of paraffin that used to hang over the office, but I do. Every couple of years I had the pleasure of working with ear defenders on all day as expensive bit of kit hovered, and manouvered right overhead.