Pug 206 anti roll bar drop links.....

Hi all, I need to replace the two anti-roll bar drop links on the front of my Pug 206 after 146K miles
The rubber boots have split and one of the ball joints has excessive free
play
Now to get them off needs a 25 Torx socket and a 16mm spanner.
Only trouble is I ended up breaking all my torx bits so the hardened tip of the torx bit is now stuck in the screw. This is because the nuts and studs have corroded together. No amount of WD 40 has helped.
I thought about using a blow torch but I can't otherwise the heat could affect the nearby flexible brake hose.
I thought about drilling out the stud but I can't do this as (a) a bit of hardened metal is stuck and the drill won't touch it and (b) there is not enough room to actually get an electric drill in.under the wheel arch.
I thought about a hacksaw but the trouble is that (a) the suspension strut would prevent me from getting the hacksaw blade right up to the lug holding the drop link ball joint, so after sawing through I'd still have a nut left to shift, but still unable to hold the stud with a torx bit.
I thought about a metal disc cutter but (a) the electric cutter and discs I have are too big and (b) if I slip, the cutting disc will go through the hydraulic pipe thats close to the lug on the suspension strut.
Now is a "nut splitter" my best bet to getting the old drop links off?
Ay other tricks for getting the old drop links off?
Regards
Stephen
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

they are a right bastard when they do that, i normaly get a pair of molegrips in between the rubber & grip the ball stub and the use a spanner/socket to undo the nut.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Stephen wrote:

I've just used an angle grinder to cut off the nut and threaded parts of duff ones in the past. Sometimes you can 'surprise' them with an air impact wrench, but sometimes not when they have been disturbed.
The Torx/allen thing in the bolt part is fine for doing them up but usually goes like cheese when its time to undo.
I've used mole grips as another poster has suggested, or wedged a bug screwdriver in to stop it turning.
If your angle grinder won't fit, consider disassembly of stuff in the wheelarch till it will, or buy a cheap, smaller angle grinder and maybe a new flexi-hose. (c;
Never tried a nut splitter.
Failing that, pay someone at a garage. Sometimes its easier. I've just changed the rear brake shoes on my 106 and that came quite close to being worth taking it to a garage.
--
Douglas

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

If you don't feel happy just cutting them off with an angle grinder then a nut splitter works, just check you can get it in there, the question mark shaped ones are often easier to get in.
--
Duncan Wood

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Funny you mention rear brake shoes.... the hardest part is getting the drums off.
I've done that today. That was a pig of a job to do. the fault was the handbrake was not working on one side. Turned out to be a siezed brake adjuster and worn shoes.
theres 3 diff sets of brake parts for the 206 so its essential to get the right set of brake parts.
in my experience of getting drums off, occasionally the wheel bearing falls apart or you break the two holding pins as the shoes come off with the drum. Thankfully niether happened today.
when I popped off the drums, I took pics of the old shoes to help me transfer all the springs, self adjuster etc over as sometimes the Haynes manaul describes one of the other 3 brakle systems.
Also did the front discs and pads. as well
Now just have to do the drop links...... :-(
Stephen

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Stephen wrote:

Hammer and some ignorance works best.

Yeah, I could probably have got away with just exercising the 'self' adjusters, but one of the shoes had seen better days so I just replaced them all.

Hehehe. I've been mucking about with the brakes on 205s, ZXs, 306s and this 106 for the last 10 years or so.
Sometimes the factory fits a 4th type of which nobody has any record.
One thing is for sure, you can never know you have the wrong parts till you have it in pieces on a Sunday afternoon as there is no firm record of what parts were factory fitted to what car, even at the dealership.

Same here. Although I have never broken the retaining pins or a wheel bearing yet.

I took one side apart at a time to compare. Don't have a Haynes for this car.
It was pissing rain by the end too.

Angle grinder! Good luck.
--
Douglas

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 23 Jan 2010 18:31:23 +0000, Douglas Payne wrote:

I'll have to add that to the list of my emergency toolkit:
If it moves and shouldn't apply Duck(Duct) tape
If it should move and doesn't apply big hammer
If it should come off and won't apply angle grinder
--
Chris

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've had a flash of inspiration....
has anyone tried the following idea and had any luck with it?
What about drilling through the anti-roll bar's balljoint's socket shell and the actual ball of the balljoint stud.
Once drilled through both sides of the balljoint socket shell, insert a steel rod of sufficient length and the same diameter as the hole just drilled.
This then 'locks' the ball in its socket preventing it from rotating within its socket. Apply spanner to nut and undo.....
No angle grinding, or hacksaws or blow torches needed
Regards
Stephen

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

good luck, they are as hard as feck !!!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

common problem on the pugs & citroens, de-adjust the rear shoes first, go through one of the wheel bolt holes, flick the little locking tab back & then back the adjuster off, the drum should then fall off.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.