Question about wheel bearing for Volvo 440

Sep 01, 2003 5 Replies

Have a '93 440xi non-abs which needs a new wheel bearing on the front nearside and would like to know if the replacement wheel bearing has the ball cage exposed at one end ?



I'm asking because I've took the old bearing of the disassembled hub but notice that the hub flange has a large rounded shoulder which I suspect maybe part of the old bearing and also needs removing - which looks impossible to do because there is nothing to grip onto in order to extract it from the flange.



I'm hope the rounded shoulder is actually part of the flange, and is therefore meant to stay there for the exposed ball cage of the new bearing to butt up to.



On the other hand, if the new wheel bearing doesn't have an end with the ball cage exposed, then it's obvious the shoulderd part must somehow be removed from the flange.



Any help/tips/advice will be much appreciated. Thanks


"BG" mumbled:

That does sound a lot like you've taken out the inner track and the balls but left the outer track in situ. The bit you have out...does it have an inner track, some balls and an outer track?

Best way to get it out is to drift it out from the other side with a suitable implement and a big hammer.

Some are /so/ tight that it's a hydraulic press job. Later Maestro/Montego bearings are like that...unitary twin bearings and near enough impossible to shift without a press. The early ones are easy!

Difficult to tell without a picky but that sounds very much like the inner race from the bearing. Very carefull application of an angle grinder is sometimes required to get them off.

---------------

Thanks for your replies Duncan & Guy.

I've now confirmed that the shoulderd section is indeed part of the bearing. Apperantly, this bit always get left on after wacking out the bearing from the flange. I realised it was part of the bearing after deciding to try & cut 3 slots around the outside so I could get the legs of a puller on it - only to discover it was hardened metal whereas the flange isn't. This was confirmed by looking at a new flange & bearing at the local Vovlo dealers. I can't hammer the bearing of from behind because the flange is a bigger diameter than the bearing, so the only way of extraction is to grind either

3 slots for a pully get a grip on, or (as suggested) actually grind right through the bearing shoulder to the shaft itself. Don't really fancy doing that, and because it's such a tight inference fit I may have big trouble trying to push on the new bearing without a proper press (I'm told the bearings are easily damaged if you don't use a press). So for the moment I think I'll pop along too the breakers yard to see if I can find a decent complete hub assembly whose wheel bearing seems in good condition, then simply fit the complete unit.

I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks again BG

If you try your local small garage they'll normally press a new bearing on for a small sum of cash

----------- Wheel bearing has all been done now.

Had to grind through the remnant of the pesky wheel bearing until I got to the flange shaft, then the bearing shoulder came away really easy. Pressing on the new wheel bearing was much easier than I thought, as long as you press on the outer shell for inserting it into the stub axle carrier and then press on the inner shell for inserting it onto the hub flange shaft (luckily I had two sockets of perfect size to use on the shells).

I must admit that I had my heart in my mouth when doing it, in fear that the bearing would fall apart with one miss-hit wallop.

Thanks ver much for your advice.

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