Yes, conventional wisdom has always been 3,000 miles or 3 months,
whichever comes first.
Now there are endless arguments that you can go much longer, especially
when talking about synthetics. I think that Hyundai recommends 7,500
miles with dino oil.
Still, 6 months is the longest that I would consider between changes,
regardless of miles driven.
I watched my mechanic do an oil change on a Chevy van one time. He had
checked the oil and it was full but very dirty. When he took the drain
plug out, nothing happened.
He actually had to punch through a solidified piece of sludge that had
formed at the bottom of the oil pan to get the oil that was still fluid
dripping, and it dripped out thick and slow. The owner had never
replaced the oil in over 5 years, he just topped it off as it seeped
from bad seals.
Still, with a new filter and oil, the van drove away with no strange
sounds or smoke.
I had a girlfriend with an old 327 Impala that leaked oil. She understood
that gas made the car go but the role of oil seemed more mysterious. So
naturally she ran it dry and it threw a rod. That's when I realized there
were people who were so ignorant about basic mechanics that if you told
them their engines ran on little gerbils they'd probably believe you.
I had a girlfriend who one nice summer day flooded her car, and so plugged
the tank heater in because that's what you do when it won't start.
Actually overheard last week at Fleet Farm: "Honey, you can't put WD40 in a
grease fitting, they don't work like that."
I have been driving several miatas for about seven years now and have
had many check engine lights go on, both with my cars and with my
In almost every single case, removing the gas cap and putting it back on
until it clicks at least 3 times turned the light off.
Have you tried this yet? I did have to replace one gas cap that had quit
holding pressure, but it was the same common problem causing the CEL to
Nonsense, your lowest grade dino oil is good for at least 10 years or
100,000 miles, whichever comes first.
As far as oil filters, I got tired of paying for those and deciding
which one to use, so I just plugged off the hole.
The lack of an oil filter makes those once a decade oil changes much faster.
At least I think it would, the engines seem to keep burning up long
before then, but I doubt if the problem is lubrication based.
Now quit trying to get people to waste an ever-decreasing and ever
more-costly resource. ;-)
I'm sorry, should have thought of the environment! Once had a lady
come into the shop with a Dodge van, 318 V8 (5.2 liters for you
european types, 5.2 litres for you Brits) and wanted to know how often
she should change oil. She'd had the van for a couple of years, many
many thousands of miles and had NEVER changed it, I told her she was
due and suggested the conventional 3 months or 3,000 miles.
We changed it, when we pulled the drain plug a quart or so of thick
sludge came out. With new oil and filter it started, ran normal
compression, normal oil pressure and ran fine.
My girlfriend once had a 1973 Ford LTD that got an oil change only when
the oil light came on, same deal, it didn't seem to hurt it?
Engines take an amazing amount of abuse.
OTOH, a young girl brought in a Pontiac Grand AM (GMs attempt to build
something even cheaper and crappier than the Vega) with the oil light
flashing, she was coming from LA on her way to Colorado. We drained
about a cup of oil, refilled it and the engine disintegrated as she
reached Albuquerque. Of course she tried to sue us and GM for using a
defective oil filter....
So when I said engines take an amazing amount of abuse I didn't mean
GMs 2.4 liter 4 banger....
Sometimes just the change you feel brands and cleaning your field Will make the check engine light disappear like magic
Many oil companies are trying to sell water down feels after all the massive spills they had oversee and trying to recover all their lost millions worth.
> I have a 1999 Mazda Miata. The check engine light came on
> and stays on. It's been a year and 8 months since the oil
> was changed. Would that cause the check engine light to
> come on?
My '99 does that when I don't turn the gas cap until it clicks. The
check engine light stays on for a few days after I tighten it. If your
gas cap was loose but you've tightened it now, and you really don't want
to look at that unnerving yellow light, and you don't mind getting your
hands a little dirty you can reset your "MIL" (malfunction indicator
light) right away. Get in the trunk and disconnect one of the battery
cables. Next press on the brake pedal for about thirty seconds.
Reconnect the battery cable and you're good to go. WARNING! This
deletes all your preset stations on your radio and resets the clock to
1:00. If you have the anti-theft code enabled on your radio you will
have to reset that as well; there are instructions for doing this at
www.miata.net. Or you can just wait a couple days and see if it goes
out on its own.
And hey, get that oil changed! If you can afford another $40, get your
spark plug wires replaced - go to a Mazda dealership and insist on the
blue NGK plug wires. Miata plug wires are shot after 30-40K miles, and
if it's been that long since they were changed you'll notice the
difference immediately. Your car will be much, much happier, and happy
cars make happy drivers. My wife and son and I drove up to North
Georgia in her xB last month; boy oh boy have they ever got some roads
up in those hills that look like they were custom-made for driving a
Miata. Funny though; the whole time I was in N. Ga. I saw not one
Miata, only SUVs and pickup trucks.
Yours WDK - email@example.com
On a similar note.... I *really* screwed up, now I'm right in
the middle. I had the fuel-cap CEL thing on my '99 about two years
ago, pulled main fuse long enough to reset ECU, but not lose radio
presets, and light went out until a month or so ago. I did the
'backyard reset' a couple of times to no avail. Finally took it to a
local indie shop where a good friend, and _great_ mechanic, works.
They either reflashed ECU or pulled power- I got conflicting stories-
but all was fixed. Until I got four miles down the road, and whoopie!
here's the CEL. I took it back in less than good humor, only to find
that it was my friend's last day there, he was going lobstering.
All I found for sure was that the code it threw was a PO 7135
(or 1135? couldn' read his writing) which, I was told, was a general,
generic, "Your engine has a problem." And now I'm wishing I'd driven
the car a little further, and gotten a new gas cap although I think
that I would have lost the 31 dollars they charged me in that case.
(I.E. not applied to re-do after I take car, fiddle, and bring it
back. Only fair, I guess.)
Any ideas/thoughts would be welcomed. I have extra keys, I
suppose I could pick it up Sat afternoon or Sun and work on it. And
this is the week I'd planned to sell it!
TYIA to all for reading/thinking about this.
If it is
I only redo the gas cap if I get an of the following codes:
P0455 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
P0456 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
(Very Small Leak)"
P0457 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
(Fuel Cap Loose/Off)"
The codes you list may are not standard and are not generic. Standard
codes only go to p0850 or so for ODB 2 systems.
Call your Mazda dealer and ask (they are in the phone book)
Thank you for the useable, "ask the mechanic *this*" type help,
I'll be calling tomorrow. I'll let everybody know what happens, as
this looks to be a widespread problem with no one solution...
Thank you again, but my local Mazda dealer courteously told me
to fork off, I'd have to come in with the car to tell me what OBD 1
code # 7135 (or 1135- writing was terrible) denotes. At, I assume,
their minimum rate of 1/2 hr and 40 dollars.
If anybody can tell me what those codes are, I'll send you
something really nice if you like music. (If you don't, I'll think of
(Oh yeah, if anybody knows how much they are charging for the cruise
control transister TSB they have out, I'd love to hear it. Hmm, wonder
if that code is related?)
Anyway, seems like it should be a recall, with the cruise control
basically accelerating the car on its own. Sounds pretty dangerous.
If it was my Rex Sty, you'd change radio stations, look back up, and be
going 125mph fer chrissakes...Anyway, thanks again to anybody who can
On my '98, the 1135 code means the front O2 sensor ~heater~ has gone
open circuit. I had this happen, and replaced the sensor with a generic
version (required splicing leads) as the dealer didn't feel this was
covered under the emissions warranty. The generic was cheap enough and
the install simple enough that it wasn't worth arguing.
Post mortem on the sensor showed that the connection to the heater
element had broken off at the braze. I think it's a manufacturing
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