Synthetic Mazda 3?

Dec 19, 2007 7 Replies

I just purchased a Mazda 3, it's a 2004 with 89k km on the clock. I believe all previous oil changes were done with conventional, but I know the characteristic differences between conventional and synthetic, which makes me believe that in the long run synthetic is the right choice. Quaker state makes decent synthetics, So I believe (been using the advanced stuff for the past 3 oil changes in the



1.8t). Would the new Quaker State "horse power" 5w20 synthetic be ideal for the Mazda 3? I'm not a ricer or anything putting octane boosters in my 3 to gain performance, so I expect no performance actually from this oil, just a good synthetic that wont sludge up as much as conventional.

I would spend my money changing dino oil more frequently, say every 5k miles or less...in fact, that's what I do with my own 3. At 143k on my Miata, there's been no sludge problem changing dino oil every 3k-4k.

Synthetics are a good idea for boosted engines with high stress and heat issues. I don't think they're justified otherwise.

I use synthetic, I change every 9k as advised by the handbook (I think our conditions are far less dusty over here in the UK). I agree with what you say about them in the last paragraph, but my oil has ester content which is

*supposed* to reduce engine wear during a cold startup. Apparantly this is when most wear occurs?

R.

5W20 is unusually thin. Don't Mazda still recommend 5W30 or 10W30?

No, not even for the Miata.

Leon

I sure hope you have a *white* Miata. Leon

I use 0W40 (Mobil 1), not really for the viscosity but because it's the only oil that stops my HLAs rattling - Castrol Edge 0W40 didn't work at all, and nor did their Magnatec 5W30. Not a problem on newer Mazdas with solid lifters, obviously.

You can put 0W40 in 99% of cars made - a notable exception being some

1990s Fords, which must use their specified 5W30 to prevent valves sticking - although it won't give the very best fuel economy.

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