Kent FR30 Cam and valve springs.

Decided to go with it as it's primarily a torquey cam rather than BHP and there's a lot of hills where I mainly drive so torque is a bit more important as BHP . As well as that, the powerband is from 1000-6000 RPM which is ideal as I'm not building a 9000RPM screamer and I need it to be a daily driver.

Got just over 11mm lift which is nearly twice the standard. Do you reckon I'll get away with standard valve springs or am I looking at a set of doubles?

Decided to go with it as it's primarily a torquey cam rather than BHP and there's a lot of hills where I mainly drive so torque is a bit more important as BHP . As well as that, the powerband is from 1000-6000 RPM which is ideal as I'm not building a 9000RPM screamer and I need it to be a daily driver.

Got just over 11mm lift which is nearly twice the standard. Do you reckon I'll get away with standard valve springs or am I looking at a set of doubles?

I'm going to be using an Injection head from a Sierra and am going to=20 use standard valves. It's not going to be a mega power motor.

As for spring and valve to piston clearances, I thought I'd just whack=20 the whole lot together, fire it up and run straight up to the redline.

It's not like I've built engines before.

--=20 Conor

I'm really a nice guy. If I had friends, they would tell you.

Earn commission on online purchases, =A32.50 just for signing up:

Aye. Got to keep a close eye on the angle those finger followers are at.

Going to try it on the bench with the originals in first and see what happens. Might just say sod it and splash out for some Kent ones anyway.

Why on earth do you think you need double springs if you have a higher lift cam?

What you do need is new springs, carefully fitted, and make sure you open valves with piston at TDC, so you can be sure you have enough valve-piston clearance.

Ken wouldn't know mega power if it was rammed up his arse sideways

I don't 100% - I've just always used them in the past because I've built engines to do 7000-8000RPM and stock springs tend to bounce around that.

Was planning on doing the old plastercine trick. Easiest way to see what there is which will help as I was planning on skimming the head to reduce the combustion chamber capacity so checking how much clearance I have before doing the machining will stop me carving off too much. Should be OK though because the duration is only 4° more than stock.

Yes I know I could start with a 1600 head but it's cheaper to skim a 2l injection head down than to cut bigger valve seats, do porting and also convert to unleaded. Not wanting a street stormer but just something with a little more flexibility. Yeah I know I could just go buy a 2L lump and have done but it's also to give me something to do over winter. The current engine is running OK so I've got time to do this.

I've decided that if I want power, I'm gonna NOS it as it's cheaper, I'll have a car that's drivable and starts in winter plus power on tap when I want. The boot in a Capper is so s**te that losing a bit more of it for a 11lb bottle won't make much difference.

Do you have elctronic ignition on your car ?

Not trying to be funny, but a friend recently fitted Pertronix to his Midget and it was very very simple to fit and cost half of what Lumenition would have. It is essentially the same as magnetronic. A worthwhile upgrade if you have points and a condensor - especially if you would like reliability.

(The pertronix was around 45 quid if ordered in the correct (sneaky) way.)

Are you stupid? Clearly.

More cut and paste from Google eh ken? Perhaps you need to Google harder.

Higher valve lift means higher valve acceleration. This may call for stronger springs to ensure the valves follow the cam profile. Stronger springs mean thicker wire, which combined with higher lift means that single springs can't always do the job because binding occurs. Hence double, or even triple springs (see Guy Croft - another degree qualified and well experienced mechanical engineer, who wouldn't even stop to wipe ken off the sole of his shoe).

What the f*ck does "carefully fitted" mean? Do you mean "don't fit them in sideways" or something? Such a statement of the bleedin' obvious betrays a shameless cut from a Googled article without any understanding on your part.

Chris, go to school, learn about and then gain some experience in the subjects you pontificate about. Then you might be welcome on Usenet.

guy fawkes

As you bleat so persistently about your vast experience we must conclude you are speaking from experience here too, eh Chris?

g f

As it often is by the backstreet rolling road kennomometer operators ken is in love with.

g f

And you can have one of those cool foot high stickers in the back window.....................

If you are going to sock up as the saddest/sickest piece of s**te to ever post here, then please do get it right!

If you dont know how to fit valve springs to a head which is going to be fitted with a performance cam, then I dont think we really have any more need for your trollish drivel!

WHOOSH

You flatter yourself if you think anyone would bother to properly "sock up" to avoid your "wrath" kenny boy

Rachael alias g f

As I have said bunt would be flayed alive if he ever posted here again............and he knows it!

Not yet. Must admit it has been something I've been looking into and will most likely fit along with the engine as it'll need a different dizzy anyway. There's several solutions from robbing a 3 wire system from a Sierra/Transit/Grandad to direct replacement, vacuumless replacements with modified advance curves and finally mappable systems. Nothing is too expensive - I think the mappable system is around £200.