I'm looking to change my '03 Clio 1.4 for a Volvo T5 in the coming few months, but have a couple of questions about them. (My parents have owned a T5 for the past 3 years and I've driven it several times, just a couple of questions that I cannot find the answers to!)
(1) Is the performance of the auto T5 and manual T5 the same? As far as I know, the standard manual T5 850 (225hp version) has a 0-60 time of 7.4 seconds and a top speed of 149mph, is this the same for the auto version? (Parents have manual, I want auto!)
(2) Are there any chips to get more HP out of the T5? I doubt I'd get it done on mine as the insurance for me on a standard car is a lot, I would hate to think of the extra premium for performance enhancing modifications!!
Probably not masses of difference, as the auto boxes on the T5s are supposed to be pretty good - with a manual, you've got the delay when you're pressing clutch and selecting the next gear, during all of which it's not accelerating, which you haven't got on an auto, nor have you got to lift up the clutch to engage it in first, it's just there already. But with manuals you can hold onto gears for much longer, but then again, with a decent sports autobox that holds on to the gears a lot anyway there really isn't all that much in it.
I'll leave Jamesy to talk about improving on the performance of a standard T5.....
Right. On paper the manual is quicker both to 60 and through the gears, however in the real world, the auto is quicker and alot more pleasurable to drive. In original incarnations, both are 225brake and same torque. With the T5-R and S70's you get 240bhp and more torque, however it is electronically limited in 1st gear with the auto to preserve the box.
As you well know the manual car is difficult to get off the line quickly- either it makes alot of smoke, or else it bogs down and then when on boost tries to shred the tyres, the TC cuts in, the boost drops and then it bogs. You will find that for point and shoot the auto is the quicker and smoother car- all you worry about is keeping the thing on the black stuff with the steering wheel. Alot quicker away from the lights too- hold it on the brakes and get some boost for a fast getaway. The smooth application of power helps the tyres keep their grip....[1]
Front tyres will last *alot* [2] longer with the auto as well. Buying a used car will have the added disadvantage of not knowing exactly how much life is left in the clutch with the manual box and they are £500+ to change.
However, the auto isnt bomb proof and will expire at around 100k due to the stupid policy of Volvo suggesting in the service schedule that it requires no fluid changes. So if you do buy an auto, take it for a longish test drive, make sure it drops into drive and reverse almost immediately you move the shifter and that it doesnt slur or flare between gears. If you buy the car, have the fluid flushed and changed at 10-15k intervals. Do this and the box will last 200k. Likewise with 5k engine oil and filter changes. Other things to watch are air con evaporators burst and oil leaks from the crank oil seal clutch / torque convertor end. Oh and timing belt + rollers at 70k.
Plenty- although not really needed. The first thing to do it to tighten up the wastegate linkage by 1-1.5 turns. You'll find boost rises alot more sharply, peaks higher and holds better than standard and can transform the car. If you are too greedy the inbuilt safety cut out will cause a violent misfire, so back it off alittle so it doesnt do it even when the air temp is very low. On later cars the intercooler air path is 'reversed' and you will get a small benefit from finding early (94-95) pipework and swapping it. At this stage I would be done on an auto at 250-260bhp- the box really can't take any more power reliably. With a manual the next stage is a chip and replacement 3" turbo downpipe which would see you with 280-300bhp.
[1] I recently beat a T5 from the lights in our 2.5 NA auto just cause he sat there with tyres alight going no where! [2] manual - 5-7000 miles, auto 7-12000miles. (!)
Just a quick point on wastegate actuator linkage adjustment. By shortening the wastegate rod you are also reducing the amount the wastegate can open and therefore reducing its ability to divert exhaust gas and control boost. Do it too much and you can end up with runaway turbine syndrome where its not possible for the wastegate to flow enough EG and the turbine accelerates without a lot of control, the nastiest form of boost spike. Much better solution is to fit a wastegate actuator that is rated to 'crack' at a higher pressure and maintain the original actuator rod length. 1- 1.5 turns shouldn't create a problem though as its only a small reduction in rod length.
That sounds fantastic! How much does that cost? How would a non traction controlled car take that? Hopefully I'll be looking for one with traction though!
Be a _nice_ change to the 98bhp and 127nm I have in my Clio!
If you want more BHP than the T5 offers, then why not just buy a car with more BHP? - I really can't understand buying a car that doesn't do what you want, then spending more on modifications to it.
If you already had the car, but fancied tuning it, then I see the point, but to go out and buy with tuning in mind doesn't make much sense to me.
Tricky - but I think all T5 spec cars have traction control. I can still get my 2.0T spinning like mad in first and second. Overtaking and accelleration on the move will be awesome though, as will the torque steer.
Of this lot, IPD are hugely respected in the USA, Eastern Aerospace are a bit of a joke (with the strange exception of the ECU, most of their power claims are ridiculous), Kalmar Union run 2 racing Volvos, and SAM have a history of motorsport with both Volvo and Renault.
Volvo Tuning, whilst relatively new, are rapidly making a good name for themselves, /and/ they do custom re-maps on a rolling road.
In article , snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...
Because enough is never enough.
Steve, I openly admit, if I was to have the money for an Enzo, or a Konigsegg I wouldn't be happy with it as standard. I would have to do some thing to improve it, get more out of it, make it handle or stop better. No car is driving 100% to it's potential, there is always compromise.
Difference between an Enzo, a Konigsegg, a T5 and a Saab 900, or an ALfa/Lancia is, I can afford to do things with off the shelf parts, and modifying standard stuff, if I go to the Ferrari stage everything would cost so much money and be shipped away to do it, I would never get to drive the thing.
I can't think of one single car in the T5's class, with 250bhp+, for similar money.
All the mods for 250bhp+, are free. It's only a few hundred quid to get near to 300bhp - so once factored into the cost of the car, it's effectively £0.
If there's no alternative, then how can something not make much sense ?
We're talking about free bhp here. I spent £25 on an adjustable valve for my TI, so I can run 12psi instead of the stock 10psi. BUT, it's 12psi through the whole range, instead of the
The traction control on these cars (850s and old shape 70s) is the Volvo TRACS system which is a total waste of time.
It only works below 35kph It only works if the 2 front wheels are turning at different speeds. It works by applying the brakes to the spinning wheel and NOT reducing the power.
So in a straight line away from the lights, floor the loud pedal and the wheels will spin (and in 2nd and in 3rd).
I have TRACS on mine and the only time I have ever seen it do anything is in snow.
So in short, you will need to learn how to put that power down yourself and not rely on the TC.
Nah, have lurked off and on on the Volvospeed and Swedespeed forums, and was an active member of the old (well, not that old, but apparently deceased) T5UK forum.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.