1965 Mustang PS Conversion

The PS steering box is quicker than the manual one, 16:1 vs. 19:1. The PS setup also uses longer idler and Pitman arms.

I wouldn't worry about changing the box, but I would get the longer arms, which are marketed as the "Shelby quick steer" kit.

You also need a PS drag link, aka center link, but you probably already know that.

180 Out

Chris,

As mentioned this coversion is indeed a pain. Add an alignment of course, and these systems tend to leak. I actually converted mine to manual for ease of maintenance and increased road feel.

If you change the steering box to 16:1, that might be enough by itself to help rest your flailing arms. Is that the main problem?

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

I used the R&P manual kit from Mustangs Plus. I had factory PS, but (as has been said) it's not very accurate, and it leaked a lot. It's also heavy, and the factory pump robs enough power to be noticeable. I have to admit I don't much like it. The ad says, "Manual steering that feels like power". Don't believe it. It fells good when driving down the road. Very smooth and precise. But low speed maneuvers do require some muscle; much more than my Cobra. If Flaming River ever makes a power rack for this conversion, I'll be buying one. I'm also looking closely at this kit called "Steeroids". If I had seen that a few months sooner, I would have bought it.

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

Yes, that's the kit I used. You rip out all the old junk, from the steering wheel to the spindles, and install their kit.

I know the column is Flaming River, but isn't the R&P Flaming River as well?

Overall, what did you th>Spike wrote:

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

Yes, it's all built by FR, column, rack, U-joints, cradle, etc. It think it's a pretty good quality, but there were a couple of things I was not happy with. I've used FR racks before, and never had any problems. I have one in my Cobra kit. They are smooth, long lasting, and fit the application well. I've never heard of one failing. The cradle fit almost exactly as designed. There was a poorly done weld on my car (not the cradle) that I had to modify for. And the right side rack bracket hit the starter motor, so I had to modify that a little. But the rack and cradle really was a simple bolt on affair. There are separate parts for headers and non-headers applications. The U-joints are very high quality. I think they are the best in the business. The column was another matter. It's a tilt, but only seems to have two positions. I had some trouble getting it wired correctly, the instructions were not exactly correct. I used the service manual to get that right. The floor plate is held to the column by two cheesy little #6 sheet metal screws. I added two steel #10 nutserts in their place, and two stainless bolts. And the column feels rough when you turn it, it makes a slight scraping noise. All in all, a shoddy piece of work.

If I were to do it again, I would use the FR rack and cradle, and go to Iditit for the column. If you want power steering, go to Steeroids or Total Control.

And here's another little tip that nobody has mentioned before. You know the stock '65 steering column and box are one piece, affectionately known as the "Thoracic Impaler". There is no way you're going to get that out in one piece with the engine in place. That's where a sawzall comes in.

Yes, I also noticed the reduced drag, and noise. Less float, too.

The increased effort is true, even the best MS setup doesn't feel -at all- like PS. It does feel better overall IMO. It improves road feel considerably, as Bob mentioned. It took me a few months to acclimate to how manual steering cars like to be turned, while rolling -just- a little bit. There are times I curse it, but they are few.

Also, this tidbit - my '67 is set to +1 deg. caster (I believe -0.5 deg. is the stock caster setting), and while this actually increases steering effort, it makes the car track better. This rec. came from an old geezer curmudgeon (not ByM). It is well worth it.

With R&P, also keep in mind header interference, and other things. I've considered R&P, but to me, it's just not worth the expense. I'll put those $ into horsepower and paint, and deal with the bump-steering, skittish factory steering characteristics.

And with MS, put the thing into a power-on (or off) slide with a tight, even factory-spec suspension, and it'll naturally correct itself. You just have to know how and when to catch it, then reel it in. It's a lot more fun than the mushy PS setup, to me.

My suggestion? Unless you've got a BB, get a 16:1 box, and just grease everything well every 6 mo..... my ten cents

As I recall, if you only do the column (of which I think I have seen 2 versions- one 12 position and one a 5 position) there is a point where you need to use the sawzall anyway.

I had RP in my MG Midget. The day I bought it, they opened up the showroom window/doors so I could drive it out onto the highway. I did. As I turned left onto the northbound lane, I found myself going sideways. Shocked the heck out of the Japanese drivers all around me. And we served dinner on my spouse's dinner plate sized eyes... LOL

It's go>Spike wrote:

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

How are those bump-steer kits? Any brand recs? Negative wedge... wasn't for sale? Me confused..

and I could have bought one anywhere. They just

The negative wedge kit lowers the front end in what is generally refereed to as a "Cobra drop" (though amount of drop varies). These were available from Summit, Mustangs Plus, etc. Vintage wheel works, who said I needed one with their Vintage 40 wheels when I up sized to 16" doesn't sell them, so it's not like they say that just to sell you something else.

This in turn, leads to a minor problem involving the anti-sway bar during turns. The bump steer kit is like a spacer for the bar, lowering and insulating the mount points.

Note that this is not the techno jarg>Spike wrote:

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

Gotcha... this is not the Shelby upper control arm, lowering, is it (you do have a '65), it's just lowering the ride height?

I've seen articles on it. I've heard it can be used to absorb bump steer on all early Mustangs...

If you remember, let me know how the bump steer hardware works... I'm curious.. thanks

It's a 65 and the Cobra drop is not the same length, but it amounts to doing the same thing.

So I'm told. For the price (about $239 plus any tax and S&H) I'm not losing a heck of a lot even if it didn't. The final bill (several years in the making) for resto and all mods is in the neighborhood of $40K and it's not even for a show car.

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16