it is not true, you do not need to raise the engine , but I will tell you that changing a starter on a 4x4 pathpuppie is no walk in the park, it is somewhat of a challenge for even an accomplished technician.
To avoid replacing the starter again , USE A FACTORY OEM PART !!!
i did use a Nissan Factory OEM starter and it only lasted about a 1 1/2 yrs - thats when the armature started acting up and I have put up with the problem for a 1 1/2 yrs.
i went back to Nissan and told them that this was replaced 1 1/2 yrs ago and the now the armature has a bad spot on it --- and they said ""SORRY it only has a 1 yr warrenty - would like to pay to have another starter installed - that will be another 600.00 - thank you, let us know"
Can you explain the details of install the starter as why it is not a walk in the park even for an accomplished tech.
I use to be an automotive machinist and I have rebuilt the entire frontend on this 4x4 -- i have a LOT of tools.
I had heard that it was a bear to change out - but NO ONE has been willing to explain.
thank you for at least clearifying that the engine doesnt have to be raised
I USED A NISSAN STRATER the last time I had the starter changed and THE NISSAN STARTER ONLY LASTED 1 1/2 YEARS.
and NISSAN said SORRY it only has a 1 year Warrenty - do you want to pay ANOTHER 500.00 to have another starter installed.
My question to the board is the process of removing/installing the starter
ALL the answers I have been getting are that I need to USE a Nissan Starter.
Do you know the issue with removal / install of a Starter on a 94 4x4 Pathfinder
Wil: You helped me trouble shoot a rear hatch electrical problem on this pathfinder back in Sept of 2001, I remember your name - and I printed your postings - thanks
The problem was not able to be fixed, I even broke down and took it to Nissan - Nissan Could not fix the problem, So my rear hatch light does not work - no big deal. Oh well --
You also helped me with the a Power Stering Hose system change out - the next month -- thanks.
Now I have a Nissan Starter (2nd) with an Armature that is going bad and need to change out the starter. This is will be the 3rd starter for the pathfinder - the 1st just died one day, the 2nd (present) the Armature has a bad spot on it and therefore needs changing before it goes bad. Both of these STARTERS are From NISSAN.
The first one lasted 7 yrs - the 2nd starter lasted 1 1/2 yrs then the Armature starting going bad, I have been dealing with this starter problem for about a year now and finally need to change it out before the Armature doesnt have any more 'good spots to make a connection'.
Can you advise - I have been told that it is very hard to change out and that it is easier to lift the engine - and then I have been told that you dont need to lift the engine. My books show nothing on the Starter removal / install - just remove 2 bolts from the bottom. From what I see - is that there is one bolt from the front on the bottom side of the starter - going horizontal - not vertical as my book indicates - I would 'assume' that theres is a 2nd bolt on top - also going horzontal - although I cant see it --
The Oil Pan is in the way and therefore I see no way to lower the starter out - it looks like I'd have to remove the front swaybar and pull it from front.
I remember they are an absolute PAIN in the rear. I do know for sure that I never lifted any Nissan engine to change a starter, not even on the trucks/Pathfinders.
If memory serves correctly, once you disconnect the battery, all the cables from the starter, the starter bolts, etc., I ended up pulling the starter part way toward the front of the vehicle and then from there it was basically a `twisting' game until you got just enough wiggle to pull it out, but it's been a few years and I can't swear that I didn't have to pull the splash pan off and end up sliding the starter out toward the front or if on some applications you could unbolt the mounting point for some steel lines that were in the way and get some side access from the wheel well area to assist.
As several have mentioned, it is an absolute pain, and it's tight all the way out with the old, I do remember that much. So if you decide to go it, my well wishes are definitely with you and please do post back which way you ended up going about it. I'm really leaning toward using both methods actually (using the access from the wheel well area and sliding the starter and rotating it here and there until it came forward toward the radiator for removal).
I do remember the hose and latch problems! Man, sorry to hear the latch light problem eluded being fixed. Some electrical bugs are elusive little $(#(*'s.
Here's a little encouragement. It's for a 95, but it may be the same
Bill ::: THANKS For the INFO..
As I thought - (as mentioned on the site you just recommended) the 2 mounting BOLTS - they look so hard to get to - as a matter of fact " I CANT EVEN SEE THE TOP BOLT - yet" guess its a insert socket in the area and hope for a grab and then room to turn loose --
GOING to be a REAL FUN job.
i printed out the info from that site and bookmarked it and will reference it.
Well : I still think I'm going to do it - maybe this weekend - if not next weekend.
Bill ::: THANKS For the INFO..from the Automotive Helper Site
I'm thinking if you remove the right front tire and the rubber liner piece (if it's not already missing) you MAY be able to see that top bolt. If not, try looking up from the rear (transmission end looking forward and sort of up) with a flashlight.
Here's a thought too. Pull back the rubber boot on the oil pressure sending unit (above the starter) and see if there's any leakage. This would be a perfect time to replace it if needed.
I have always disconnected the oil presure sender as others here have said. I have also found it is much easier to come out if the steering idler arm bolts are removed and just let the whole steering linkages hang down until the job is done. Then after the bolts are out, work the whole starter and harness out past the motor mount before removing the wires. Sometimes it takes just the right amount of cussing for the starter to go through that hole, but eventually it will hit the right spot and pull right through. Once it is out, just install it in reverse order. It is amazing how much easier it goes in than it comes out.
This past weekend came and went so fast - I had no time to put aside enough time to attack the starter --
I'm still dealing with the turn the key a few times to get the armature to hit the right spot to get it to turn over - I've been doing this for a Year or more.
Yes I am getting very tired of it - although I've only had to push start it and jump start it - 2 times during this BS period. The jump starting issue - was that I'd turned the key so many times to get to a good connection that it never landed on - that I drained the battery, put cables on it - and it started on the first try - I couldn't push it that time.
Oh I have a SE 94 w/5 spd standard, 4x4.with 31" tires- Goodyear ATS
31x10.5x15
Anyway I promise to POST the aspects in detail on my changing the Starter on a 94 Pathfinder 4x4 --- ADVENTURE
I'm really looking forward to it.
I have to do it real soon - I am heading to a 65 mile stretch of BEACH - after next weekend - where only 4x4's are recommended and I DONT want to have a STARTER go bad on me - the NEAREST town is 80 miles away.
Guess I have this coming up weekend to get it done.
Last minute makes it more fun - committed dedication.
And I think the BOTTOM starter Bolt is Broken - I cant see the Head of the Bolt..
I did buy a new starter and the Bolt Holes are Threaded - I have never seen that before .
Anyway I called my buddy who changed it the last time and told him about it -- He said to bring ot him first thing Monday morning.
I also noticed my NEW (fairly new) upper ball joint Cups are gone -- broke away - Moog Ball Joints. To add - my upper A Frame Bushings - need replacing. To further add - the Lower Rear A-frame Bushing REALLY need to be replaced - its the one with the rod going to the lower A-Frame - one of thos erods has wear on it - since that bushing is GONE.
Boy these 4x4's need lots of maintenance...
So I am just going to let my buddy knock it all out at the same time.
PS I never was able to see the Upper Starter Bolt.
Can you give any input on the Threading of the Bolt Holes in the Starter??? and any input to anything I jsut wrote?
Thanks
Robert
PS again Wheres the Engineering Group that DESIGNED this Starter Location? DAMN - thats SUPER TIGHT in there.
I must be stupid or just getting tired of being under this 4x4.
I replaced all Ball Joints / tie rod ends / sway bar and center link bushings, shocks - not a year ago.
Now it looks like the upper A Frame Bushings and the Lower Compression Rod Bushings all need to be replaced.
I also JUST realized the Starter BOLTS come in from the Transmission side - I was looking for the bolts to be coming in to the stater from the front of the Starter. That explains the threads in the starter bolts holes. Thats what made me THINK - about the bolts coming in from the back side of the starter.
To me it also looks like the Center Link needs to be knocked off the Idler Arm to get the starter out.
Oh well - since I have to take part of the front-end apart - I'm going to give it to my buddy, to do the bushings and the Starter, and then align it.
Yeah, I couldn't remember myself about the bolts but was thinking at least one of them came from the rear. So they BOTH do. Hmmm...
Yeah if you're getting into all that suspension work and alignment anyway... do yourself a favor though and before they start tearing stuff apart, have them recheck the center link. With everything else going bad again, it's possible it may be as well. You must REALLY play in the sand. ;-)
My '95 still has original everything suspension wise at 118,000+ miles including the shocks BUT it only sees the street/highway.
Make **SURE** when they do the alignment that they do the caster/camber adjustment as well and not just the toe. Otherwise you'll end up with some seriously cut up tires. A lot of places don't like to take the extra time that is required to do the caster/camber adjustment on this series of Pathfinder, or worse, they'll lie outright and tell you it isn't adjustable when in fact, it is. They just have to use special shims. Of course don't argue the point, just don't let them do the alignment. If they don't want to do it just how well do you think they will after an argument? ;-)
Its a Buddy - friend that has a shop - several lifts and an alginment machine (really nice) -- so everything is cool
I have a 183,000 - have done the front end 2 times - on my 3rd set of shocks -- orginals gone - now on 2 nd set of KYB's (life time warrenty - so this set was FREE) they are hell to get on - very strong shocks.
my front end parts where Moog - with lifetime warrenty -- I've redone the hubs 2 times - and recently put 4 new Rotors on when I redid the hubs - races/bearings - etc.
Yep everytime I get algined they cuss - it takes them awhile to get it right -- I'm real picky about the Alginment bacause I have almost $600.00 worth of tires on this thing.
I never replaced those compression rod bushings - so its time now - way over due.
The Upper a frame bushings are fine - been replaced - i thought they might of needed again - but nope - fine.
The upper ball jonts -I was using Moog and the dust cups keep cracking - so i warrrentied those out and replacing with Berk Arnalds (sp) - every thing else is Moog.
I replaced the Idral Arm and Center Link when I did the frontend completly the first time. This past yr when I did the front the 2 nd time - it only needed - tie rods / ball joints / sway bar link kit. Thats when I did the hubs and 4 rotors / brakes / all fuilds flushed. All the Aframe busshing are still good from the first rebuild.
Oh I having to replace the Air Duct Tube (3" tube) you know which one from the Air Filter Box ... its all cracked -- (special order from Nissan)
From what I can tell both Starter bolts come from the transmission side - and since the Starter bolt holes are BOTH threaded.....
==============================================================================================================Wil heres some of my background (enjoy the reading)
I use to be an Automotive Machinist and I've built a FEW motors in my time - Mainly american motors though - I've done value jobs on too much to list. Ive taken cars competely apart and put them back together.
I use to race 1/4 mile (street race / warehouse dist - mid night racing back when cars were really muscle cars) - 71 Camero 450 hp - sleeper. BUT its been about 7yrs since Ive taken a motor apart and my machinist yrs ended about 15 yrs ago. and I no longer have my Camero / money pit. / sold it to a mid life crisis guy.
Hell i dont even change my own oil anymore - I let the local Oil Pit do that for me.
Ive completly rebuilt the Frontend on this Pathfinder (by myself) and put KYB shocks on (2 times by myself and thats HELL) and completly redone the
4 wheel disc system (by myself).
I had a buddy do the clutch since he has a shop with a Lift and he did the timimg belt at the same time. -- made me a deal for doing both - couldnt pass it up. Eventhough - Ive chaged out a few transmission and rebuilt a few muncies 4 spd.s in my time.
Ok now you know some of my background and history of my Pathfinder - OH
182,500 miles of 4x4 - Colorado/Utah/Wash MTNS - Desert - Beaches - MUD - SNOW - 2-3 ft of water - you name it
I ve even buired it in the sand up to the Head lights with the rear wheels up in the Air - damn that was a lot of fun pulling that out - needless to say the Number of Beers it took to get it out - or was that to get it Stuck. NEVER listen to a friend that is Drunk and says "You can make it". I was So MAD I forgot to take pictures. plus the mile and 1/2 walking in the sand looking for the first person - meaning looking for a big 4x4 -
Oh I've even hung it off the edge of a small cliff - 8ft - where the left rear tire and the left step rail was the olny thing keeping it from rolling over. The 2 right wheels were both up in the air - the front left was hanging off the edge and the left rear was stuck in a deep whole - just deep enough to hold the truck. I jumped out - left it running and the door open. - I later had to climb back in to hold the front wheels straight while we were pulling it up and out.
Both times I had it stuck it took a FORD 350 4x4 to get it out. on the cliff we had to pull it out the same way it went in - or it was going to tip over and had on the other side a 2nd 4x4 pulling from the side so it didnt attempt to flip over. In the sand - it took 50ft of chains and straps to pull it out. The 4x4 pulling me out was digging himself in. He ahd to get further and further away - kept digging in, until finally I got just enough of a bite off the front tires to jump out, plus I had 2x4's under the rear tires as they lower back down - 2 3' 2x4's are good to carrry. Lucky I had (2) 25 ft or so - big long chains and he had a 15 ft or so strap. Each time - it took about 2-3 hrs to get it unstuck.
I've calmed down. But I'm heading back down to 70 miles (1 way) of ONLY 4x4 BEACH - this weekend - S TX Beaches - ONLY 4x4 Allowed - well HIGHLY recommended. Always carry a 2 gal plastc gas can on top, you never know when you might need to burn up some gas - getting unstuck.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.