94 Sentra - Hesitates When I Step on Gas

My 1994 Sentra (1.6 Liter 4cyl Automatic) died while I was driving it and it wouldn't restart. I had it towed to a local shop who after a couple weeks told me it was the ignition coil wire. They replaced that and it would start again, however it barely ran. I didn't like that shop very much so I took it to the local Nissan Dealer who told me the Distributor Cap was cracked and had water in it. They also said that it needed a tune-up. I took it home and replaced the cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, air filter, pcv valve and fuel filter. I also ran some fuel injection cleaner through it. It runs very smooth now, but it still accelerates very poorly. When I first step on the gas from a stop it barely moves until it reaches 15-20mph and then it runs ok. Then once I'm driving down the road if I step on the gas it hesitates until it downshifts.

I pulled out each plug one by one and they each testing positive for spark. The Check Engine Light has not come on. Any other suggestions on what I should check? Any help will be appreciated?

Thanks,

Brian

Reply to
Brian
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I don't know about your exact model, but possible the ignition timing is a little too far advanced

Retarded timing makes a car start easier from cold and run up hills etc

Advanced timing is needed for good higher speed running

Sometimes if the timing is too far advanced you can hear a "pinging/knocking" if for instance accelerating hard in top gear, especially if going up a hill

This simple test, is not so easy to do in an auto gbox car (as it will change down a gear on you)

Assuming your car has normal type ignition points (and NOT pointless ignition) then fitting new points, and setting their gap correctly, can have the effect of slightly setting the timing wrong (compared to what it was before, with the old points installed)

One "fix" is to slightly set the points "wrong" (a little tiny bit less or more than the recommended gap)

However this upsets...if I'm right, the "dwell angle" so can only be used to a limited degree.

The proper fix for wrong timing is to correct the timing. Some old English cars had a "micrometer" adjustment using a finger turned knurled nut on the distributor (I used to have my 1959 Vanguard set, so that for cold Winter starts with the handcrank, I'd adjust the knurled nut all the way to "Retard", then wind it back all the way to "Advance" once the engine started.....I never once had any bad experiences with the crank starting handle ! (Heard stories of broken jaws and thumbs ripped off)

Most cars nowadays no longer have that fine "micrometer" adjustment. It's necessary to loosen off the 2 bolts securing the base of the distributor and twist the body of it VERY GENTLY a tiny bit one way or the other

Take the dist cap off and see which way the rotor top turns while having a friend turn the starter momentarily

Now you can visualise "if I turn the dizzy THIS way, the spark happens EARLIER (ie advanced) and if I turn the dizzy This way, the spark happens later, ie Retarded

I notice that my Nissan, the rotation of the distributor rotor is the opposite to what all the English cars I've had is

If possible, use a felt pen or something to mark the dizzy body-base and mounting base before you try moving them, that way you can always return it if no improvement is made

Remember that you only want to turn the dizzy a tiny bit (usually it's a bit stiff and then suddenly it turns a lot and you have to turn it back some)

DO NOT LIFT THE DIZZY UP or the drive thingy underneath will get all out of kilter etc etc, ya don't wanna go there

When my Nissan came back from the Datsun specialist after having some major engine work done (new timing chain and gears, I's thrilled with their work generally) but I noticed when going up a decent hill that it "pinged" very badly

After I got home, I retarded the timing very slightly, the pinging on hills is now "almost eliminated" (which is generally considered to be the right effect) and the car's been going great ever since

cheers Catherine Rural Western Australia

Reply to
Catherine Jemma

Mmm on re-reading you post it seems as if your model of car probably doesn't have contact-breaker-points and as such you wouldn't have changed them and upset the timing that way

I dunno exactly what your electronic engine management system does, and how much it tests for. Perhaps the "check engine" light would react to bad timing and perhaps it wouldn't

Sorry I can't be of much help, but hopefully someone with more knowledge of your actual model will reply

cheers

Reply to
Catherine Jemma

You've done all you can besides finding a reputable repair facility and paying them to fix the problem.

Reply to
Meat-->Plow

Does the hesitation seem to happen when the gas pedal is in a certain position? (Light acceleration vs full throttle) When at cruising speed does the tranny seem to shift in and out of lockup? If so I would check / replace the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

Reply to
Paychek

Thank you to everyone that has replied so far.

The hesitation does seem to happen more if I step further down on the gas pedal. If I press down on the gas pedal very slowly the car accelerates more smoothly. Two things:

  1. Is there a way to check the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) without replacing it first?

  1. Catherine - Thank you for the detailed reply. You mentioned that the timing might be off. Well that first shop that I took the car to (the one I didn't like) replaced the ignition coil wire. However, the first week they had the car they told me they thought the problem was with the distributor or the ignition module/coil. Maybe while diagnosing the starting problem they accidentally messed up the timing? I'll take a look at the distributor and see if I can figure out how to adjust the timing. Any additional tips on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you again for all your help. One more thing - if it helps - the car has about 100,000 miles on it.

Thanks,

Brian

Reply to
Brian

Hey Brian, This site will give you a general idea of what problems the TPS can cause and how to check it.

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a more detailed test procedure, pick up a Haynes (or whichever youprefer) manual. It will give you the test steps, exact voltage readings,etc... For my 95 Altima (don't know if yours will be the same) the readings are 0.4 / 0.5 volts at idle and 5.0 volts at full throttle. (readings are with the ignition on and the car not running) good luck.

Reply to
Paychek

Here are the results of testing the TPS sensor:

There were three wires going into the sensor.

  1. The top wire had no voltage.
  2. The middle wire had about 5 volts regardless of the throttle position.
  3. The bottom wire had about 0.4 volts at idle and increased as I opened the throttle.

Based on this I'm guessing the TPS sensor must be working. Does that sound right to you? Any other suggestions?

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Brian

Reply to
Brian

I had a 1993 Sentra with the same symptoms. These cars have finicky fuel injectors, and if one or two are acting up, you will have the results which you describe. My car ran badly off the line, fine from

15 to 80, where power petered out. Try this at idle:

Pull the #1 plug wire off. Does the engine run rougher? If so, replace plug wire and move on to #2, #3, and finally #4. If you find that pulling the wire DOES NOT make the idle worse or much worse, then you have a dead cylinder. Replace the fuel injector ($60) on this cylinder (takes about a half hour and you need to remove the valve cover - good time to change the gasket).

None of this set the check engine light on my Sentra, and this happened around 100,000 miles.

YMMV

Reply to
Sapere Aude

Thank you for the reply. I actually have already tried this test. I pulled each plug wire off individually and checked how the car ran. It ran equally as rough with each plug wire removed individually. Is there another way to test the fuel injectors?

Also, I still haven't been able to check the timing. I can't find any timing marks on the engine. Does anyone know if this car has timing marks and if so where they are located?

Thank you for your help.

-Brian

Reply to
Brian

It's fixed!

Turns out it was the timing. The timing was set to 5 degrees Above Top Dead Center and I found the factory setting is supposed to be 10 degrees Below Top Dead Center on the 1.6L 4cyl. The following websites helped to figure out how to check and adjust the timing:

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Thank you to everyone who provided suggestions and advice. I really appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Brian

Reply to
Brian

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