Brake job for a 2002 maxima SE

First, it should be noted that calipers have no impact on the brake squeal issue. Brake squeal is always a function of the brake pad and pad shims. When you changed your front pads before, did you re-use the OEM shims? You really, really should re-use the OEM shims - they are there to dampen vibration, and work consistently better than any anti-squeal goo you might try. If you pitched them, you can probably buy a new set under the component 'brake hardware kit'.

Changing a rotor is easy - you just proceed as if you were changing the pad - remove the caliper, remove the pads, and the rotor should be staring right at you. If there are some phillips type flat head screws near the center, remove them. You might need an impact driver or some PB blaster on those. Then re-thread a lugnut on a lug partway and give the rotor a rap with a heavy metal hammer. Or, take a pair of screws (M10 usually) and thread them into the empty holes at the hub of the rotor. Tighten these down and the rotor should pop free. Installation is the reverse...

I would further research the 2002/2004 caliper swap, and see if others have done it. Brake systems are carefully balanced between the front calipers, rear calipers, and master cylinder. The reason is because usually a bigger brake has different sized pistons, and larger pistons mean your brake system needs to move more fluid. If this is the case, you should consider getting a larger master cylinder also. You should also change the rear calipers too, since changing just the fronts could lead to a change in front/rear proportioning. At its worst, this can cause the rear brakes to out-brake the fronts and cause the rear end to break loose - just as if you yanked your e-brake. I wish I knew the answer, but I have a 97 so I don't know what mods the 2002 owners have done and why.

So if you find yourself replacing any of the calipers, you'll need to know a couple of things:

1) Brake fluid is highly corrosive to auto paint. It's not under pressure, but if it runs or leaks onto you or the car clean it immediately. 2) Ordinary open-ended wrenches are a Very Bad Idea for loosening the tube fittings on brake and clutch hydraulics. Get a special brake line wrench from the parts store that will fit tighter and not round the nut. 3) Get one quart of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. Not the DOT5, ever. (Although DOT5.1 is ok, but it's not necessary). Don't break the seal on the fluid until it's time to add it, and throw the rest away at the end of the day. Brake fluid absorbs water when in contact with air, and this will degrade the thermal properties of the fluid. Also, the entrapped water will corrode the internals of your brake components. 4) Brake fluid cannot have any air in the lines. Once you unbolt and remove the caliper from the brake line, change the caliper, or even open a bleeder screw, you should bleed that caliper. There is a very good how-to on a good bleeding procedure at In a nutshell, you push fluid in one direction only by having one person push the brake pedal, and you open the bleeder screw. (warning: do not overtorque the bleeder screw, ever. It's just barely snug.) Fluid will bleed out, and you close the bleeder before the helper finds the brake pedal to the floor. Then repeat until all air bubbles are gone and keep the fluid reservoir at least at the min mark as you do this. Repeat at each corner, per the order specified in the factory service manual.

Dave

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