Okay, yesterday my car kept stalling out. Every time i tried to give it gas it would just make it stall. So, I go out and get a new fuel filter and pump. First I changed the filter, it did nothing. Changed the pump and I don't hear the sucker crank on. So, I check all the fuses and relays. Everything seems fine. I checked all the connections with a voltmete around the pump. Everything seems fine. It gets a 12 volt shot for a about 2 seconds, yet the pump wont start? I check the pump by hooking it up 2 the batt and it def works. Anyone have any clues what the heck this could be?
it gas it would just make it stall. So, I go out and get a new fuel filter and pump. First I changed the filter, it did nothing. Changed the pump and I don't hear the sucker crank on. So, I check all the fuses and relays. Everything seems fine. I checked all the connections with a voltmete around the pump. Everything seems fine. It gets a 12 volt shot for a about 2 seconds, yet the pump wont start? I check the pump by hooking it up 2 the batt and it def works. Anyone have any clues what the heck this could be?
I have a similar problem, although I haven't tested/replaced anything yet to do with the filter/pump. I did replace the ENG CONT relay on advice from NissTech -- but it didn't make a difference. My problem began (and still exists) when the weather got around freezing, or below. The car would turn over normally, but wouldn't even sound like it would catch. The first couple of times this happened the car would start then die when put in gear, or revved. It would start again, but quickly die regardless of feeding it gas or not. The very first time it happened I could drive 50' at a time for several blocks, then it just starting working fine. The next time it wouldn't start parked outside, I got some friends and we pushed it into a garage and left it a couple of hours and it started fine. Since then, it just won't start below freezing. If it's in a warm garage it will start, then if driven into the cold it is fine, until parked outside for a couple of hours. If left outside for just a short time it will start and perform fine.
Does weather/temperature play any part in your problem? NissTech said the relay I changed was a common problem that caused this type of event. BTW, my Max is a '94. Let us know what happens in the end.
Did you test the old pump? :-) I've replaced 2 nissan fuel pumps in 20 years working on them...
How many amps is the pump seeing? Most people use a digital meter looking for voltage and can make mistakes doing this. You can read -12V- holding one lead to the - battery post, the other on your hand and touching the + battery post with the other hand, doubt that would run a fuel pump! A test light, while low tech, is a MUCH better diagnostic tool for most car electrical problems as it actually puts a load on the system. Save the digital meter for the computer run circuits
Well, I have a 97 Maxima. I live in NJ and this winter has been the worst in a loooooong time here. However, yesterday it was prob like 48 out side, so weather was not a factor. Today is was around 30, not fun 2 work out in. My car isn't getting any gas though. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the gas temp sensor? That could be a problem if it is sending false info 2 the computer. I just hope my computer isn't shot. I'm pretty much lost as of right now, I have tried just about everything I could think of.
Something I left out... When I use the volt meter to test the connector for the pump it reads 11.5 volts for no more than 1.5 seconds when I turn the key. When the car is cranking it only reads 9 volts. Now here is the wacky part. When I connect all the connectors to the pump 0 volts are measured during the key turn or the cranking. I don't understand what the heck could cause this.
That's exactly what I'm talking about why volt meters are a bad tool to use. You are seeing volts but no amps and all this does is confuse people into thinking there is power there. A digital volt meter is the -wrong- tool to use in most automotive electical diagnostics.
Most nissans have variable voltage supplied to the fuel pump by the computer. It's normal to have full voltage for 1.5 seconds and then lower volatge when cranking only. A burned trace in the computer would still send voltage (at a milliamp rating) that appears to be "enough voltage" as would a corroded connection. That's why a test light is a better tool as it puts a load on the circuit which will show if there is actually any -power- there. Voltage with no amps is useless. Using a volt meter cost you buying a fuel pump and I bet the old pump is fine.
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