PEUGEOT 405 STYLE DIESEL 1994 L REG

No fuel at pump sound like something simple (fuse) is it poss to wire a live and earth from batt to the pump then you will know if its the pump or some thing else.

Hey,

The pump is purely mechanical, except the cut off solenoid which of course is electrical.. There is no booster pump in the tank on these cars. If you have the solenoid out - and I take it you mean you have removed the moving part and put the body back in (otherwise you will just be sucking air in through the huge hole left by it! ;-) ) then it cant be that.

Have you used to hand primer to prime the fuel system ? It should go 'hard' after a few squeezes. You will definitely need to do this if you have been in at the fuel filter and the solenoid. Maybe the initial failure to start was just due to air - unless of course you have primed it and it still dont work.

If you can prime it and it still dont start, then maybe your pump has failed. The pump is driven off the camshaft, any chance your timing belt broke ? If your sure the timing belt is OK, maybe you should remove the pipe feeding the pump and see if you can draw fuel through with the hand primer, this would prove that there isnt a problem getting fuel from the tank to the pump, eg a blockage of some kind, and if there isnt, then it points to the pump..

Is there any sign of firing at all ? Have you tried pushing the accelerator when cranking ? If its spluttering then thats totally different than if its 'dead'.

The immobiliser, if you have one (my P reg 306 is a keypad code thingy) then it interrupts the power to the solenoid, so given that you have removed that you can rule out immobiliser problems.

All you can do is approach it logically, first ensuring you have tried priming it.

Good luck! Craig

test lamp shows pump getting power was wondering if theres an immbiliser that cuts power to pump once starter is activated?? if its a fuse problem which one ?? getting fuel to pump no problem but its not coming out pump powerful enough to get to injectors

So you have checked that power is getting to the contact on the cut-off solenoid. Have you checked that the solenoid is actually working? They do fail, either electrically, or stick mechanically. There is no immobiliser which will cut the power after you crank the starter. If I remember correctly, the central locking on my '93 405 would also immobilise the starter. Unless you have some aftermarket system fitted. If you have fuel getting into the pump, but not out, how have you checked this. It sounds as if either the cut-off is stuck closed, or you have air in the system. To get the air out, you need to crack open the high pressure connectors on the top of two injectors. Then crank the engine with the accellerator pedal fully depressed. Keep cranking until you get fuel spurting from the connectors. You will probably see bubbles first. As soon as you get fuel, close those two and open the other two, and repeat. Then the engine should start normally, unless you have a leak allowing air to continually enter the fuel system.

getting fuel from tank no problem is it possible that timing belt has jumped a tooth on pulley ?? timing belt is due for replacement but i didnt want to do it if pump was goosed because pump was going to cost me £600 car is probably worth £200 no sign of firing at all if timing belt has jumped a tooth is it possible that if i do the belt the pump will work again

there was never a failure to start untill now car was running smooth responsive then began one day bluey white smoke on start up then that day started cutting out on tickover then cut out comletly it never gave any indication of being starved when accellerating just tick over which i thought was dirty filter how can i be sure pump is 100% goosed ?? dont want to replace it if theres something else

So the timing belt is due for replacement? Have you checked if it is still tight? If it has become loose, it could have jumped a tooth, which would account for the white smoke - unburnt fuel from retarded injection timing. It would be difficult to start. Since then you have repaced the fuel filter, and I guess not bled the air out properly from the high pressure side of the pump. So you have two problems perhaps.

If the belt has jumped a tooth it should still start but sound like a box of spanners as my 205 dturbo did when it happened to me. Though thinking about it, it /might/ depend on which way it has jumped.

REASON I THINK TIMING BELT IS OK IS BECAUSE WHEN IT BROKE DOWN OUTSIDE HOUSE I MANAGED TO DRIVE IT INTO GARAGE ON STARTER MOTOR PAINFULL I KNOW BUT NEVER THE LESS HAD TO BE DONE IS THETRE ANY WAY OF LOOKING AT BELT AND CHECKING IF ITS AS IT SHOULD BE ?? WITHOUT TAKING ENGINE MOUNTING OFF

car drove for 2o miles after i saw white smoke and was cutting out on tickover wasnt hunting or erratic idle either the usual dirty filter stuff once i got nearerhome it began cutting out more then would you believe it it cut out at the front door prior to cutting out the tickover was smooth whats the chances of changing timing belt that pump will be ok ??? are these bosch pumps famous for failing?? its the egine with the 4 allen bolts on top of filter someone tell me please ave been under the bonnet every night this month

Those Bosch pumps normally go on for more than the life of the car, they rarely fail. Far more likely that the belt had jumped and put the injection timing out. I have seen this happen on another 1.9TD, and the symptoms were exactly as you describe. You should be able to get the front timing belt cover off without touching the top engine mount. You can then check the tension on the top run between the camshaft and the pump. It shoud NOT flap loose, ideally you should only be able to twist it about 45 degrees either way. If it is really loose, then my money would be on it having jumped. The good news is that if it has jumped a tooth, and all still turns without nasty noises, then provided you get the timing right again, all will be fine. Doing the timing is not so difficult either. It is well described in all the Haynes manuals covering that engine, including the one for the 405.

it takes longer to lock it all up than to do the job.

thanks a lot to everyone who has given me good advice ave taken it onboard and hopefully be sorted soon