Changing brake pads on a C900

Have you wound the piston in?

Fit the outside pad first so that it is a fairly snug fit, then wind the piston in a little so that the outside one will fit with a little tap to get it in.

Should be fairly snug. I used a set of circlip pliars and took my time, but I'm going to buy one of the proper tools for next time.

It could be what happened to mine. The dust sheild was damaged, and the piston wouldn't retract, so I ended up fitting the old very badly worn pads, and swapping the lot as soon as the new parts arrived.

How far? I wound it in with a pair of circlip pliers following the instructions to adjust the handbrake. It warns not to wind it too far. Will it stop once it's far enough, or can I do any damage?

thanks for your help, Ben

Thanks Carl, I'll have a look into this as well.

KRs Ben

In 1988 or some year like that the Classic 900s changed brakes so you don't have to wind the pistons in. In 1987 they moved the emergency/parking brake to the rear wheels. I had a 1986 and watched the emissions testers put the front wheels on the rollers and very deliberately yank up on the parking brake - and wonder why the car stalled. With 1987 model on, the parking brake on the rear wheels lets you pull hand brake turns.

Yes, in 1988. But Ben said "...but can't move the sliding caliper far enough...". Sliding caliper == old Girling sliding yolk caliper, so pre 1988, handbrake front.

Hi,

This is because the indirect piston is stuck with rust on the cylinder. (indirect piston is the one which operates the sliding caliper.

Wind back the piston as long as you keep increasing the gap. The trick is to try and use one new and one nearly new pad, and then keep changing them often. From memory I took a half worn pad out every year. It is easier to set the handbrake and pass the mot with thicker than thinner pads.

If it helps at all. Charles

I'm sorry, but that's nonsense - the trick is to sort out the caliper, either by unsticking it or if it's terminally stuck then to replace it.

OK you are correct. You can also overhaul the caliper you don't necessarily have to replace it. A kit with all the rubber seals (hydraulic and dust seals) was available. And all the pistons stick because their dust seals never got replaced once they left the factory.

Yeah, those kits used to be everywhere, but they're so hard to get hold of these days. It's a real shame, because the calipers are really not hard to do. They only take about 20mins each if you know what you're doing.

My last source (7-8 years ago?) was partco.

Charles

Charles and Grunff, have a look on the parts for Saabs website

Nice one Carl! Superb. I can rebuild my own calipers once more.

I should have known 6-7 years ago when I was pulling my last 900 to pieces. Very interesting though :-)

Thanks to various old calipers, and recon ones failing the MOT within 6 months, I've got a pair that I plan to try to rebuild now, so they are ready for the Next MOT.

Should be fun.