Breaking Into Your Own Car

To go through the steering column boot would require opening the hood and see that the release is inside the locked car that might be a bit difficult. Tried to ket thing too but the key needs to be close to the configuration of the key that goes with the lock - do not have a key that is close.

Locksmith just came by and unlocked the door with a set of picks - took him all of 30 seconds with no damage to the car. I was glad to pay for it. Now to find some key blanks to have an extra set made. I got some blanks from SI and the blanks were not even close - blanks were supposed to match the new ignition lock - not remotely close - just not worth arguing with them to get it right.

What year Lark? I think 64 used a different blank, not sure how hard that is to find. The repros that SI sells work fine for the lock cylinders that use a Y133 blank.

nate

Paul Villforth wrote:

I think it was supposed to be a Y133 and they told me that is what they sent but instead of having double grooves it has a single groove low on one side and another high on the opposite side. It is similar to the glove box but it is not the one for the door and ignition. Door and ignition have two grooves on each side. I think they pulled the wrong set but according to them they could not have done such a thing. The blanks they sent are about 3/4 the length of the ignition and door keys

I've not had a car, truck, or house...ever...that I haven't locked myself out of. Very first thing I do is to get a couple extra keys, a hideabox gizmo and stash that spare key someplace. I feel your pain... Jeff

"Paul Villforth" wrote...

How long does it take you to remember where you hid the key?

Lee

I just checked the blanks and they do not match any of the Studebaker keys for my Lark - have no idea what they would be used on.

There would have been pain if I had to break something but fortunately I think I was spared that. I have not tryed relocking the front lock that was picked, so I am hoping that it is OK. If I could get the correct blanks I would have done that by now - just need the door blank. I could probably get the door locks to match the new ignition key but I really don't feel like taking the cylinder apart at this time. Need to get the car painted and sold Maybe if Shiva see this he will tell me which blank is correct I have a tag for the new ignition key - maybe it can be cross referenced to a blank

I would put one in my wallet and another in the vertical bumper or on the back of the bumper bar or somewhere on the frame with a plastic wire tie - would need to be brass though or coated in grease - this would make a good thread - where to hide the spare key

Or just take the lock apart and dump the pins out of one... that way any key that fits in the lock will open door. Who would know if the door requires a correct key or if it could be opened or locked with a screwdriver. If someone is going to break into your locked car 9 time out of 10 they're just going to break the window before trying the lock.

Lee

Jeff - it cost 79.50 to get into my car - it may help me remember tio have keys in my pocket next time but cheaper then new glass or screwing up the door frame, etc.

The side windows in my Lark are laminted glass. I think they would have a big shock when they tried to break the glass.

I posted some pictures of the Lark engine compartment. Take a look if you like. This link should work.

Soundsl ike maybe you got a Hurd key by mistake... does it say "H5" on the head?

nate

Paul Villforth wrote:

Last time I was locked out of my truck (not Studebaker), the locksmith that opened it told me to take a spare key and drill the hole larger then mount it behind the rear license plate screw (under the plate). Paul Johnson

whatcha ya need???

--Shiva--

it can.. LMK the code, email if you need.

--Shiva--

DAMM, wish I lived in YOUR neighborhood.. going rate here is $25.. IF its not a long drive

--Shiva--

Hurd key has NO grooves either side, AND is VERY short..

BET its an early Chrysler..

--Shiva--