Well, not exactly... I've lost the screws that hold the gas tank sending unit in the Power Hawk. They were pretty sad and needed replacement but I don't know the exact size and thread count.
Anyone know the specs?
TIA
JT
Well, not exactly... I've lost the screws that hold the gas tank sending unit in the Power Hawk. They were pretty sad and needed replacement but I don't know the exact size and thread count.
Anyone know the specs?
TIA
JT
xxxx Got taps? See which one threads in with little effort. Cleans the threads too.
They aren't machine screws, they are 'wood screws'... Or whatever the politically correct name is.. DO NOT FORCE A MACHINE SCREW in there or you will really have a pile of poop to fix.. StudebakerGeorge
What really gets my goat is that "somewhere," I have a parts manual...
JT
That's a good idea but I'm not sure where they are...
Oh well, I'll get it solved hopefully by year's end!
JT
The screws are #10-5/8".
Chip
#10 Diameter
5/8 Length??? Thread count...
They're lurking around somewhere but that's what happens when a task is spread out over a couple of months.
Sometimes I think that I should get rid of ALL of the cars and move closer to a bus line...
JT
I think they are just #10 5/8" sheet metal screws.
Chip
xxxx Sheet metal screws perhaps.
xxxx Nobody suggested forcing anything. I thought they would be machine screws. So he needs his sheet metal taps instead. Or as another poster listed the size of the required screws.
The29
Over the years I have seen MANY 'forced entry' screws of all types used in the sending units. People just can't believe that common 'wood screws' (we used to kid about that) or 'sheet metal screws' were used by the factory on the units. They remove the originals and think that some boob has used the wrong ones and then try to 'improve' or 'repair' them. I have had to fix high buck 'restoration' Studes where this is one of many places that the tech didn't bother to do his research and just 'assumed'... My whole point was that they are common as dirt and easily available. And use the old seals, or get some of the ones I suggested or you will be sniffing gas fumes for a long time...... I leave the trunk floor sending unit cover off and literally 'shake' the car from side to side to see if there are any leaks and then drive the car around for a while to double check. I am a stickler for gas leaks. I don't use stainless steel lines either because they LEAK. I use the coated mild steel lines and paint them or clear coat them if desired. Stainless lines are for coffee table cars and trailer queens. Merry Christmas, Studebaker George
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