Replacing pinion shaft seal?

I'm going to try to get that nut off the end of the pinion shaft this weekend so I can replace the seal. Is there anything I need to watch out for or is the hardest part just getting that 150 ft-lb nut off the end?

Thanks, Tim

Reply to
Tim Ulrich
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A well oiled half inch impact on 150 PSI air seems to work fine.

Tim Ulrich wrote:

Reply to
John Poulos

Getting it off is easy, torquing it on is sometimes a "challenge"! Be sure to get it tight! Also, look into a "speede sleeve" for the yoke, it's a thin stainless steel sleeve that will "repair" the worn spot on the yoke. gives the new seal a fresh place to ride, and it will help prevent a bad seal on a worn shaft. They (speede sleeves) are not cheap, they run about $30 or so.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Turner

Reply to
oldcarfart

If you do use a Speedi-Sleeve, be sure to follow the directions carefully and remove the installation lip. If you don't remove that installation lip, it becomes an oil slinger and will prevent oil from lubricating the seal lip. (and possibly prevent the yoke from going all the way in). If your seal surface has a noticeable groove in it (from abrasive wear), put a very small amount #1 hardening Permatex on the groove right before installing the Speedi-Sleeve. This will fill the worn groove and prevent the Speedi-Sleeve from deflecting into the old worn groove. While not inexpensive, a Speedi-Sleeve is sure cheaper than a ring and pinion. Jeff

"Jim Turner" wrote...

Reply to
Jeff Rice

A large pipe wrench works good. The original seal was leather. The modern seals are rubber or neoprene. Make sure you put the gasket behind the seal or use permatex ,otherwise the oil will leak around the seal.I stock the modern seals and the gaskets. Robert Kapteyn snipped-for-privacy@mac.com

Reply to
RBK.

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