95 Legacy Oil Leak

The leak is most likely from the front crank seal. If you've never had the timing belts changed, this wuld be a perfect time to do it, along with the water pump since it need to be removed for the job anyway. Should be about $350 here in the northeast US.

The other stuff is really related to the age of the car, just bad timing I guess. I mean, brakes and tires wear out as do struts and the heat shield is common for that age.

I speak from experience with a 95 LS wagon : )

Sounds like the front crankshaft oil seal and/or the oil pump is leaking. Oil is being blown back as you drive, dripping on to the hot exhaust, which you notice when you stop. It will get progressively worse, so you should get it fixed. While they're in there changing the crankshaft seal & resealing the oil pump you should have them change the camshaft oil seals, change the timing belt & maybe consider having the water pump changed as well. This will keep labor costs for these jobs to a minimum.

Other stuff you list is standard wear & tear. You can do most of this yourself, except probably the struts.

Chris

Chris and John

Thanks so much for the great info. And, I figured that it was just "bad timing" that everything else seemed to go at about the same time.....you are correct---there is nothing I can do about normal "wear-n-tear"....it's just they all went at the same time (or thereabout). I'm looking at doing most of it myself----however, the CRANK SEAL, TIMING BELT and WATER PUMP.....should I only let a Subaru Dealer repair it----or, can my local Navy Exchange Auto Repair Shop take care of the job?? The Navy Exchange has very good mechanics...and, labor is only $54/hour.

Appreciate your advice.

John

I went in to get my oil changed just recently on my car, and they wouldn't change it because the oil pan was so rusted through the oil was leaching right through it, and the tech said if he tried to pull the drain plug the pan would buckle. Tonyrama '95 Legacy L Wagon

I'm not Chris or John, but I can give you my advice on this stuff. The job is not particularly difficult for a mechanic with all the tools he needs. I did it myself. It does require a fair amount of attention to detail and care. If you know a mechanic that you trust and has done it before, go for it.

Tony

I was snooping around underneath the car, and, the oil pan appears to be in good shape.

In fact, even though I spent 2 years in Maine with my Legacy, I have very little rust underneath. I have rust issues with the rear hatch, and the handle and support arms....those are rusted bad.

After talking with Chris and John....and cleaning the underside of all the oil.....it defenitely appears to be the crank seal.

How many miles do you have on your Legacy?? Also, any issues with your starter?? My solenoid is bad (takes a few clicks of the key to get her to turn over)....so, I have to replace the whole starter.

John

Thanks Jim.....appreciate the advice.

With the lower labor rate at the Navy Exchange, I will probably go with them.

John

Hi John,

I live in Colorado and I was quoted $750 just to change the belts and water pump. Was I talking to the wrong people? I can't imagine there being that much of a difference in cost from halfway across the country. Actually, I would think our prices would be lower since the cost of living here is lower. I know that prices for real estate in the northeast are almost double what they are here.

John,

Where did you get your timing belt, front crank seal & water pump replaced for $350? I'll drive there right now! (I'm in Brewster NY, about 1 hr northeast of NYC).

Robert

I you're a DIYselfer, the starter's solenoid only needs new contacts that you can get cheap at any starters rebuilder. Make a search on Google or at this adress (down for the moment but should be back soon)and you will find lots of info on how to do it.

I don't know why but I've never seen a Subaru that wasn't rusted out in the rear hatch handle. My car has been in Maine for at least the last three years, and has very little, if any, body rust. It has just over 137,000 miles and still runs like new. I've done nothing (till now) to it besides tires and oil. My cam seals were gone too, so they replaced those at the same time as the oil pan, did the timing belt while they were in there too. I figure I've got a good two or three years before the rust becomes a problem, and I expect the engine will far outlive the body, as it has on my two previous Subies. Tonyrama '95 Outback

Richard,

My quote was admittedly two years old but I just checked the receipt and it was $263. This was also by and independent ACE Certified mechanic, not the dealer and did not have the water pump replaced at that time(I later did because of another leak and it was $130). I still think $750 is way too much. Its a 4-hour job and the parts, other than the water pump, are relatively cheap.

That plus resealing the oil pump and new cam seals would be $350 here in MT at JRs repair. Or I do it myself for $150-$200. TG

I think the New York City area in particular is just the most expensive place to have car work done. I don't know if anyone has actually compiled any statistics on this, but it's certainly my impression based on living here most of my life. OK, I can't say I've compared prices to other areas but I am always amazed at what it costs for even minor repairs here. Forget about anything MORE than minor: I had a distributor go out on a Mazda 626; that cost me $800. The freaking CAP was $50!!

I would be very surprised to get a timing belt done for less than $1000 near where I live.

We visit relatives > That plus resealing the oil pump and new cam seals would be $350 here in MT

I'm sure somehow AAA has the answer.

Oh great, now I'm gonna have to look this up.

Tony

Did you do anything about your rusty rear hatch handle?? Mine still works, but, is badly rusted. As I said, I have absolutely no rust on the underside....and, I'm in Norfolk VA now....so, maybe the change of weather will prevent further rust.

Do you think replacing the rear struts would be something me and my buddies could change out??

John

It sticks from time to time, and when it does I put WD-40 on it, carefully, to avoid spraying the paint. I don't know what else you'd do for it besides replacing it. Of all the things that could rust on it, that is relatively minor. Besides, like I said before, I've nver seen one that wasn't rusted, so the chances of finding a used one in a junk yard that wasn't rusty would be slim to none, and I'd imagin it would be expensive to buy from the dealer.

Depends on your mechanical aptitude, of course, but I imagine I could've done it if I had a space to do it, and the tools, of which I have neither. I'm still undecided if I'll replace the suspension on my Miata myself, but in the end I'll probably elect to have it done, 'cause I'd rather know it was done by someone who knew what they were doing. Tonyrama '95 Outback