clutch on 92 loyale

Hi,

Did my '90 Loyale 4wd a little over a year ago. Pulled the gearbox--by myself--and recommend you follow the advice I didn't: pull the engine instead. Much easier to align everything when you reassemble it, plus you can work on all the gasket and other issues (might as well do timing belts and water pump while it's out if your budget allows) much easier than in the car. Having a second person's a plus, but not mandatory.

I'd also suggest using Subie OEM parts when doing the clutch. A little more expensive than aftermarket, but the quality level's a "known." Much of the aftermarket stuff I've run across is "less than perfect," and with a job that's as much fun as a clutch, you don't want to have to go back in a second time.!

Best of luck!

Rick

Thanks for your help Rick,

I was wondering how long it took you. My father and I were thinking we might be able to do it over a three day weekend, but we weren't sure. What do you think?

1. A day to take things apart and assess.
2. Purchase parts. (maybe have to order in advance)
3. Put back together

I'll look into Subie parts although that might take longer and be a little more difficult to get on short notice.

I'm a little worried that it might NOT be the clutch. Do you think my symptoms (stiff clutch, dragging, hard to get into first) might indicate something else? The clutch is not slipping even slightly. I should probably take it in to get an assessment.

Thanks for all your help and advice,

Ryan

Check the clutch cable where it fastens to the pedal. As a form Subaru technician I have replaced many of these on the older cars. The cable will start to come apart and stretch for awhile, causing the symtoms you describe, then it will snap, usually in a bad place far from home.

Check that out before you tear things apart. If it ain't slipping the disk is okay.

Usually a worn-out clutch _slips_ in the taller gears (RPMs increase, speedo doesn't), but clutch cable, pressure plate and/or release bearing problems can cause the symptoms you describe.

I second what schema says; _do_ check the cable first. As in take it out and inspect it; the typical damage is hard to see while standing on your head in the dark of the drivers footwell. Might as well just replace the darn thing at that point, 'cause it's _sure_ to fail the next time you are far-from-home-in-the-cold-on-a-hot-date-whatever ;-)

If you are working in your driveway, pull the engine to get at the clutch; as Rick suggests, it really is easier. If you have access to a hoist and tranny jack, it might be easier to pull the transmission, but probably not much. At the very least, you will want an overhead lifting point (come-a-long on a tree limb?), but a shop crane/engine hoist makes the job lots easier, and probably safer as well. Shop cranes are generally pretty useful to have around, consider purchasing an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight (~$100) as an alternative to renting.

Once you're in there, replace _all_ of the clutch parts, including the pilot bearing. It's possible to do the pilot bng. without removing the flywheel, but it can be challenging. Once the flywheel is off, replace the rear seal as well, and use thread lock/sealant on the flywheel bolts when you re-install it. Most of the work is easily accomplished by an individual mechanic, but an extra set of hands may prove helpful when re-installing the engine. Have your helper slowly turn either the crank, or a wheel (chock the opposite side) to aid in getting the input shaft splines to mate to the clutch.

If you have all of the parts on hand, and don't run out of beer, you can get everything done in a day. I generally allow two, to be on the safe side. Don't hesitate to contact me directly if you feel the need; be happy to talk you thru the procedure. Have fun.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

hi everyone,

thanks for all your help.

I'll definately look at the cable when my wife comes back with the car.

What makes me think it isn't the cable is that when I shorten the cable - by adjusting the nut inside at the "lever" - it still does it. The gears engage with the pedal a little bit higher, but the dragging still occurs.

Doesn't this mean it has to be the pressure plate mechanism?

Anyway, I'll do a little more checking.

Thanks so much for everything, you guys have been so helpful. I love usenet.

later,

ryan

And if you decide to replace the clutch I would strongly recommend using genuine Subaru parts. I've heard stories of people using after market clutch parts in Subarus and regretting it.