Inner CV Boot Ripped

Lots of folks will say replace the complete axle. I don't adhere to this. I just clean the joint and install new boots. My 95 wagon with nearly 200K miles is still running all its original axles.

Thanks John,

I saw some posts on other groups advocating the Napa "split boot" so the shaft doesn't have to be removed. In your opinion should I consider this or is this something to keep away from? Thanks, Djay

Split boots by NAPA worked great for me. I strongly recommmend it. kd

I recommend to mark all the relative positions of the components in the joint, disassemble, clean thouroughly, inspect it and reassemble using the Subaru kit. Do not forget to lubricate the inside of the new boot with the same grease used for the joint.

Even if you were to use the split boot, cleaning the joint properly will require that you disassemble it.

Good luck

djay wrote:

Never used a split boot so can't comment. Can't clean the joint if you go that way. I just soak the joint in a bucket of diesel to remove the old grease. Just FYI one of the joints, can't recall which end, is removed by just whacking it with a hammer as it has an internal snap ring. I just remove that joint to replace both boots.

My mechanic has been replacing the entire axle with a shaft that has new CVs and boots, and the thing is guaranteed for life! We figured it out, and with parts and labor replacing just the boots was not much less than replacing the entire assy. He's not real hot on the split boots.

"djay" wrote in news:U_NFh.4123$Tg7.2635@trnddc03:

The cheapest place I've found for Subaru boot kits is here;

They're a German import oriented page but their parts catalog has good prices on Subaru parts.

The inner boot kit for your car is less than $15 including boot, bands, and grease. The split boots are a sort of roadside emergency thing like muffer bandage. Everyone who likes them is quick to brag about how

*many* of them they've used. Not exactly the best recommendation from my POV. :-)

The break point is the labor. Doing the job right means pulling the axel, tearing down the joint, and doing a clean and repack. Recon axles are cheap enough and shop rates are high enough that paying a mechanic to replace the boot won't save you much.

The DL/GL/Loyale series fries this boot on a regular basis because it's located right above the catalytic converter. I've learned the shortcuts that make an axle swap on mine a half hour job, and started keeping a spare with fresh boot installed laying around the garage. So far I've owned five of these cars over the years and replaced that boot at least once on every one of them. :-)

Later, Joe

Any chance of finding out the brand on those axles and/or a source? My wife's 97 OBS is going to need at least one since the boot is going sad.

By all means.

If the tear is recent, and you haven't yet tossed all of the grease out (your nose knows ;-), slap on another boot. OEM boot is best, but will require almost as much work as replacing the axle. The ones that are split, and then glued after installation are pretty easy to deal with, and seem to hold up OK.

ByeBye! S. Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

I think he gets all his stuff from NAPA.

"I just clean the joint and install new boots." hello dudE....he's probably right..you just have to remove the joint and replace the inner CV boot..does the shaft had troubles too? If not, don't need to replace. i'd just got 'subaru CV boot'

installation..a perfectfit for 2002 subaru forester..