I have a '97 Legacy wagon that has leaking oil seals. I replaced the crank seal myself but now I suspect the fly wheel seal is bad. Does anyone know how much it would cost to have that seal replaced? They'll probably have to remove the engine or trans to get at the seal.
Correct about either the engine or transmission will have to be pulled. Cost is going to be pretty high for this much work. I'd invest in new valve cover gaskets and PCV valve before going down that road.
These cars are notorious for leaky oil pump o-rings. I change my T-Belt (and front cover seals) then a bit of research after (because the link didn't go away) yielded the following:
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And it worked out.... Of course, a second tear down was required. I wish the guy at the Subaru parts counter has suggested I purchase the O-Ring when I asked - "While I'm in there are there any other things I should consider servicing or looking for?" - His reply - no, this should do it.
I have a 97 Impresa with the same issue at 140K miles. I've been driving it for 4 years with the same issue.....smokes everynow and then when it drips on the exhaust and I have to add oil about every 1K miles. There is no damage going on if you keep oil in it. It even burns off before any leakage on the driveway. Replacing it requires pulling the engine and about $550 at the dealer. Weigh the alternatives...
A clogged or partially blocked PCV system (check the hoses as well as the valve) allows a buildup of pressure within the crankcase. Too much and you might see some seal leakage.
Valve cover gaskets: if they're the big O-ring style, you may want to put a little sealer in the valve cover groove to help hold them in place while you reinstall everything, but shouldn't need to seal the head side. Just make sure it's squeaky clean (may need to clean w/ solvent) and dry before reinstalling the valve covers.
Personal experience: rear seals seldom leak these days compared to the incidence of front seals--crank, cam and oil pump seals should all be renewed at the same time. Since they're relatively cheap, it's not a false economy to do them each time the timing belts are replaced. If in doubt where the leak's coming from, give the engine a good cleaning and start looking closely. With luck, you won't have to do the rear seal, as it's pretty involved as already discussed.
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