Well, it finally happened! After 360,301 miles, my trusty '90 Loyale lost power, coughed a huge cloud of white smoke, gasped one last breath and died near the top of a long grade a coupla days ago. Considering the fact it wasn't particularly well cared for the first 209k miles of its life before I "rescued" it, I guess that's reasonable service for a $1300 car!
So instead of trying to fix whatever broke, I'm leaning toward buying a "low mileage Japanese engine" (you know the ones they advertise with 30k miles or thereabouts?) from an importer for $550 or so to avoid the "$100 saddle on a $10 horse" situation with a rebuilt/remanufactured engine from CCR, dealer or similar. Anyone have any experience with these units? Especially with regard to any parts swapping problems for US emissions equipment? (It's an EA-82, SPFI, no turbo.)
On my old '86 DL (1.8L) we put one of those engines in, from a company called Watonabi I think, in SoCal. It was clean and ran well. Didn't seem to have as much power as the original, but that was just by "feel". While at it we got a new clutch too (and water pump? I can't recall, soooo long ago), since it was all apart and had the miles. If I recall they sold us a "gasket kit" too to help with the rebuild. Anyway, that motor ran fine till the car was scrapped due to it's many other mechanical deficiencies and general un roadworthiness.
Rick, My experience with a JDM engine was not great, but it was a turbo engine for a Toyota Supra. Turned out the JDM engine had spun a connecting rod bearing, which was the reason I was changing the original engine! The supplier was pretty good about it, but didn't have a replacement and so gave me credit on the purchase price and credit towards replacement parts. I rebuilt the new engine, using parts from the old one we pulled, so it involved more work than planned, but a good runner when we finished. I think if it's a non-turbo model you will probably be OK. The turbo engines probably get a little wrung out before they retire! Just do a JDM google search for a supplier near you. Regards, Brian
I've gotten a couple Toyota 4AGE motors this way, but never a Subaru engine. The JDM Toyota engines came w/o provision for EGR hardware, otherwise they were basically the same, and were (still are), good, trouble free engines. Plan on swapping intake manifolds; you might not have to, but have the gaskets on hand anyway ($5). IIRC, most of the engine wiring/emissions plumbing on the EA82 (the MPFI Turbo anyway) is _on_ the intake manifold . . .
FWIW, on one 4AGE engine I swapped the intake (and exhaust) manifolds to get the EGR working, on the second I didn't bother (shhhh ;-). Guess what; both pass Colorado emissions just fine . . .
ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101
I've found a few sources so far, but haven't had time to really research. A couple here in SoCal will sell a "complete" engine, ie, with all kinds of plumbing and accessories, along with the caveat that "some" things may have to be swapped out to make US emissions equipment work. They say all the "extras" are just complimentary.
One outfit in NorCal says they strip their engines, so you get a basic long block (as you would with a crate motor, like if I ordered a rebuilt from CCR) and they say they do that for convenience of their customers, since they claim NOTHING of the JDM plumbing's the same as US market. Then all your US stuff is supposed to just bolt right up? That's the impression I get, but have to do some more research there, too!
Anyway, since you're probably not far from them, have you ever used CCR and, if so, would you have any suggestions one way or the other about getting one of their engines vs "taking my chances" with a JDM unit? One poster said his CCR is doing just fine... and I've seen them recommended before.
I haven't had occasion to use one of their motors, but I've heard that they do a fine job. That said, you'll probably end up spending more for the engine than your car is worth (as in bluebook; old automotive friends often have huge sentimental value), which you may well hesitate to do. Also to consider are all of the _other_ little things in the car that are at or near the end of their useful life . . . I would only consider putting the money into a "new" motor if you are also paying to have it installed; probably don't want to pay to have it done twice!
I'm assuming you are planning on doing the engine swap yourself. I'd suggest that you try to source a decent used engine locally first. Reputable salvage outfits go to fair lengths to insure that engines marked for resale have good compression, and exhibit no "bad" sounds; noisy lifters, lower-end "knock", etc. If you _do_ have problems, they will generally stand behind their sale, and replace/repair the bad part. Of course this does mean that you get do the swap _again_, but it really isn't all that much of a chore in the long run, and it's way easier the second time in any event ;-) The vendor thru which I got the JDM Toyota engines also would have replaced a defective engine, I'm sure, but there's the _slight_ matter of the $150-$200 shipping charge each way to consider.
Another good option is the used car market. It's entirely possible to find a complete car with a good engine for less than the engine alone would cost if sourced thru a salvage yard or whatever. This is particularly attractive if you aren't in any real hurry to get your car back on the road, and have a place to put it while you work on it. Also, you get lotsa spare parts along with the motor, and since you know they are good you can use them to trouble-shoot and repair future issues. I haven't bought parts for my old GL in years, but I'll always buy a good running car if I can get it cheaply enough ($200-300). FWIW, any car is worth ~$100/ton at the crusher, so take off what you want, and re-cycle the rest! An easy $50-60 in your pocket.
If you go looking, take a compression tester, and a mechanics stethoscope along. All four holes should have similar readings, and the higher, the better. Readings of less than ~120psi, or variations of more than ~5psi between cylinders are bad things, as is severely dirty oil, oily deposits in the throttle body and/or air cleaner, carbon buildup in the PCV ports, or very dark deposits on the spark plug tips; they should be a uniform light tan color. Use the stethoscope to listen for bad lifters, rod knock, failing alternator/AC/idler bearings, etc.
Hope this is helpful!
ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101
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