spark plugs change - any tips?

Google the group.

There have been articles about this topic.

Access is difficult. I use a piece of plastic tubing (Home Depot lawn section) about 10 inches long as an extension when mounting the new plugs.

First, I delicately, but securely, insert the ceramic end of a new spark plug into the tubing. The plug fastened in the tubing, then I proceed to insert the plug into the deep cavity in the engine- where the spark plug holes are located.

I manipulate until I find proper fit into the threads, then screw it as much as possible turning the plastic tubing, then I pull at the tubing until it separates from the plug (if you insert the plug into the tubing to tigh youre going to have pull hard!). Only then I proceed to tighten with a wrench.

Be careful, visibility is almost non existent, using a small mirror helps a bit. The job is very easy when using the tubing but can be a bit intimidating nonetheless ( I am not a mechanic!).

MN

On my 2000 Forester I needed to remove the window washer bottle and the air intake plumbing up to the filter housing (10 & 12mm sockets). Twist and pull very hard to remove high voltage cables from each plug (grab only the boot end & not the wire). I use a 3/8 inch ratchet (8 inch) and a FLEXHEAD spark plug socket with a rubber insert and a 3 or

4 inch extension. If you purchase NGK plugs for your Forester they come pregapped to spec. of 0.044" but I check the gap anyway with a wire gage. I coat the outside of the spark plug rubber boot with dielectric grease (very thin coat). I use a very small amount of antsieze compound on the spark plug threads. Recommended torque is 15 ft/lbs +/- 2 ft/lbs which is just snug AFTER you feel the crush gasket collapse. Expect ~ 1.5 hours the first time and 25 minutes each succeeding plug change. Cheers. Ed Hayes

Hi, Ed

Just checking, did you really mean the OUTSIDE of the boot? Maybe I've been doing it wrong: I put a little on the actual metal end of the plug where the wire connects, then a tiny bit more INSIDE the boot to help keep it from sticking to the ceramic. But I'm also left-handed and dyslexic... ;)

Rick

I just do the outside of the boot where it slips into the metal tube. Maybe it would be good to coat lightly the connector too.

Thanks for all of the tips. I appreciate it.

A.J.

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Speaking as an electronics guy...dielectric grease is non-conductive. At first glance it would seem a bad idea to coat the conductive metal parts with non-conductive material. Obviously it still works or you'd be writing something different, but I can't help but think that it increases the resistance of the connection.

-John O

Hi,

I never checked the conductivity thing--I was always taught dielectric grease is used to help prevent corrosion and "stickosis." Considering the high voltage and low current involved w/ plug wires, I doubt it's much of an issue. OTOH, Subaru once issued a TSB or other directive suggesting its use for the various sensor connections which carry both low voltage and current (they were having corrosion problems) and I've used it for them w/o problems.

One place I've heard NOT to use it is your O2 sensor connections: I've read some O2 sensors use some kind of hollow insulation for heat dissipation, and grease will block whatever tiny little bit of air flow that exists, creating "bad" readings from the sensor.

Rick