Successful haggling via email?

Following the CR's sample spreadsheet, I am preparing spreadsheets for the models I am interseted in (to take with me).

Realizing how much haggling I would need to do, I am wondering whether any of you have done the haggling via email SUCCESSFULLY or not. If anyone can share that info, I'll appreciate it.

BTW, I sent an email pointing out unnecssary haggling step one must do in person despite all the info from Internet that customers (who spend time to do research) are equipped with nowadays, saying "if necessary, I don't mind waiting till December to make the purchase; I'll just have to see. ", I got $1000 dedcution as a form of rebate (CR resporst says

1500 for cus rebate in this region), of course with a deadline and the word "best and final price." I feel like telling him "if you want to miss out on a sale, keep using the word "final price".
Reply to
amanda992004
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Depends strongly on the dealer. Some are nearly worthless to deal with by email.

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

I thought so.

I sent an email to one dealer saying "It seems like there is no other way but do the haggling (price) in person despite all the info from Internet that customers (who spend time to do research) are are equipped with nowadays. If necessary, I don't mind waiting till December to make the purchase; I'll just have to see."

I saw his reply this morning with an offer of $1000 rebate but of course with the deadline of July 05 and saying that that's his best and final price. I knew that the haggling process had begun and so I posted this question about hagging via email. Then my lucky break came soon after when my sister's accountant Jim stopped by to pick up some things here.

I was planning to go (later this week) with a male friend who wants to do the talking on my bahalf but seeing Jim - he is older and more experienced aside from being an accountant (with national license) - made me realize that he would be perfect for the job and I decided to seek his help. We talked about the time cosuming process of haggling and I mentioned that I knew that they would try to wear me out. When he told me how he had to haggle for 3 hours with his last purchase, my fear of spending time haggling in person but going nowhere just rose.

When he said "we will wear them out", a big burden was relieved.

Can't help but wonder about the right place at the right time. I had gotten to know Jim really well these past 3 weeks because he had to come here every weekend to get the merchandise (related to family business) whihch he wants to make some sale for. I should have the car soon unless the salesman don't want to make a sale.

Reply to
amanda992004

Good plan.

Think end of the month, rainy day.

And don't waste your time trying to squeeze th elast $100 out of these folks. If it's a high enough volume dealer they may decide you're too much of a pain in the ass to deal with.

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Price info gleaned from Subbie folks:

Normal Subie dealer price is:

Invoice - 4% holdback of MSRP

Reply to
springnr

I did the whole fax routine with good success back in 2002. Ended up with 4 different quotes and picked the one that suited me the best (2nd lowest due to proximity to home).

It essentially works like this: You prepare your spreadsheet or Request For Quote (RFQ) with all of the required features and color selections and fax it to the attention of the sales manager at each location. Don't put any return information except your fax number and you should get about 75% of them back.

Once you have your numbers just walk in with the fax, sign the papers, and be done. For me the haggling over a few hundred bucks wasn't worth the aggravation of hours at the dealership.

-Kurt

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Kurt C. Hack

Wow... when'd holdback jump to 4%?

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

Thanks for the information.

Of course. The friend who would do the talking for me and I have the same view that hagging with the saleman is just a business, nothing personal.

Reply to
amanda992004

Got it.

Reply to
amanda992004

I wondered about doing via fax process. Unfortunately my barely one year old office jet is having the cartrige alignment problem. 6 months after the purchase, it wasn't acting right though I had barely used it. Then one day I slammed closed it and it worked and I failed to use my waranty to exchange it before the warranty expired. Oh..well.

I realized ONE MISTAKE I made: From the beginning, I should have used a male name (my brother's name) in email communication as well as in faxing (showing spreadsheet, etc.) and do the haggling. Once I get the price I could go for, I could just say it's for my sister and I am sending her to finalize the purchase process. I am not sure whether it would have worked. They may change their digits blatantly.

One thing I noticed though is that requesting quotes via edmunds.com do get better pricing (though still unreasonable) then showing up at the dealer. I called Honda Dealer last Saturday to ask a question about the suspension system while looking online info and I was invited to come do a test drive. Since it's not far, I went there and the salesman (not the same person I talked on the phone), after the test drive, asked me to come into the office saying that he would give me some info/paper even though I made it clear to him that I would not be making any decision at all. he tarnsferred me to another perosn, happend to be the guy I talked ont he phone. That guy didn' t even try pressuring me. He knew not to waste time. Then the saleman tarnsferred me to another person by asking him to print in comparison of Honda and Subaru. This one sat across from me and basically told me how he doesn't understand I would consider Subaru.

The only reason I went and sat in the office was that I felt obligated a bit since I made them take me to do test drive. But I made sure the first saleman who took me to test drive knew that I would not make a decision in a rush and also mentioning about the CR report I could get.

Later than day, I received a link to an article a friend told me about: "Confessionfo a saleman". I noticed that the way the saleman transferred me to was a part of their standadar procedure. If he didn't do that, he would suffer his boss's wrath. In fact, if he didn't get me to come inside at all, he would probably suffer his boss's wrath.

Yesterday afternoon, I went to do test drive Subaru. With no trafific on the road and the place not crowded with customers, I realized that my timing to do test drive was good. This time, I didn't go into the office since I neede to go to the rug's place. I told the lady saleman that I would look for her when I come back. I hope she didn't get her Boss's wrath, especially with the day being a holiday. One thing I noticd was that not all salemen there were wearing white shirts with a tie. And in fact, I noticed that one was wearing sport shirt. The atmosphere was more casual too. I' say that article I read (the link is at edmunds.com)is a little out of date.

Reply to
amanda992004

Maybe its the differences in the sexes or something, but I have never had a problem at any dealership. I simply walk in and say I'm considering buying a car in X amount of time and wish to test drive Y model. After I'm done I just say thank you and walk out the door. You shouldn't feel obligated to do anything. If you are feeling pressured or harassed, YOU are the one allowing that to occur.

Assertiveness, not aggression, will keep everyone's blood pressure down.

-Kurt

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Kurt C. Hack

Oh..I could have just left after a test drive - I did that at the Subaru dealer - but I wanted some digits (f0rt he avilable ones along with the list of exact features) just to see how much the price was inflated.

I don't know what he would have said if I just left though. Not getting what I though I would get (though I didn't really ask explicitly since he's the one ofered it), I wouldn't make the same mistake again.

By the way, I wonder whether there are services, say, agencies that do the haggling for me for the price I want for a certain fees (say not more than $500 for the type of vehicle ). If there is such a service, I would be the first person knocking on their door after I do research and get my spreadsheet ready.

I wonder whether that kind of business would survive or would they be put out of business by Auto Industry's lobbyist.

Reply to
amanda992004

These services do exist. They are autobytel.com, edmunds.com, Costco, Sam's Club, etc.. May not get the absolute cheapest price, but you do get rid of the aggravation of dealing directly with the dealer. The only other alternative is to go to one of those no-haggle dealerships.

-Kurt

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Kurt C. Hack

I wouldn't consider edmunds.com, etc. the same was the one I was desrcibing. since they sells cras., nto service to do the haggling on behalf of the buyer. Besieds, Edmunds.com, etc. prices are higher than the quotes I got form local dealers.

I have herad about those no haggle deakership in an article. How do I differentiate those from the rest? Do they advertise about it?

Reply to
amanda992004

You are paying a premium to not be bothered by the hassle of haggling. Whether you pay more for the car or pay more to the service that haggles, the net result is about the same. For me, my time and lowered stress level is worth more than the few hundred bucks I can squeeze out of the dealer and salesman.

As far as the "no-dicker-sticker" dealers, I have no idea how to differentiate between them. I believe Saturn started the trend, but other than that I haven't heard of any Subaru dealers doing it.

-Kurt

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Kurt C. Hack

Van Bortel Subaru in Victor, New York, has a no-dicker-sticker policy:

formatting link

Reply to
KLS

For many cars over many years I've used the same buying procedure to avoid the ugly dealing hassle. I buy on a 5 to 10 yr cycle. First I look over the cars I may be interested in and pick out what I want. Yahoo/Autos is a great help here, as are auto shows. Then I find the dealer that has the vehicle I want and is reasonable to deal with. Those who intimidate the customer stand out almost immediately and I walk out immediately. Not worth while bothering with them, they would probably do the same on service too.

After picking out what I want I simply tell them I don't haggle and only two prices will be placed on the table, one by each of us. Then I offer them the first or second position to suggest a price. Usually they suggest I go first and most agree to my price, perhaps with an additional option or two, which I often want anyway. It works and has made car buying much more enjoyable!

No I don't get taken, I do my price research first and usually deal no trade.

Reply to
Moon Guy

Nice strategy. I basically did the same.

What exactly do you mean by that?

About my research, the consumer report I bought in late June was showing dealer incentive + regional incentive but starting the beginning of July, those two were not in the report while dealers not only didn't raise their price but also reduced (during negotiation - One dealer reduced $500 from initial quote given in late June and also threw in splash guard for free last Sunday, i.e mid July). So, what's the deal with CR? Are they not able to provide up to date info anymore?

Reply to
amanda992004

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