I have a short in the switches somewhere in the power windows.
If I disconnect the switches on the drivers side to the power windows on the passenger side, (front and rear), all works fine, except the windows on the passenger side will not work.
If connected, the 10 amp red fuse in the fuse box blows, connected to the radio, interior lights and the power locks. I've disassembled the passenger doors to check the wires, and all appear ok. Could it be the power window motor? I can also duplicate the short if I press the drivers side lock button to the right or left slightly, anything but straight up and down will also blow the same fuse.
My best guess is that you are blowing the 10 amp fuse soley from a short in the driver's power lock switch (or circuit) and it has nothing to do with your power windows. This 10 amp fuse operates a number of interior lights, the power lock switches, and the radio memory feed. You stated that wiggling the lock switch causes a blown fuse. I would suspect the switch itself, unless you have the entire switch housing out of the door when performing this test; then you may be inadvertently wiggling the harness as well, possibly touching two bare wires in the door harness together. FYI, the power windows use a big circuit breaker something like 30 amps, and all of the related window motor wiring is 12 - 14 gauge. This 10 amp fuse circuit is wired with skinny 20 gauge (pink!) wiring.
You can make better headway with the following method...
Find a sealed beam headlight, wire two 16 gauge leads to the filament terminals (either low or high beam will be sufficient), then crimp two terminals to the ends of the wires that will fit into the fusebox in place of the 10 amp fuse that is blowing. Make sure the terminals don't touch each other in the fuse box, or the test will be invalid and you may smoke an actively shorting circuit if left in that condition for too long. Turn off all interior lights if possible, (or remove the bulbs you can't turn off) and turn off the radio. The headlight bulb may glow dimly even if there is no short if there are any legitimate loads drawing current on that circuit. Conversely, it will nearly *blind* you if a short is present! This is a great method for safely loading a circuit with ~5 amps of current at 12 volts and gives quite a warning signal when you find the short. Now carefully wiggle the switch without disturbing the harness. If the lamp lights up, then replace the switch. Also inspect the harness connector for any signs of burning/melting and repair as necessary. If you don't find a short there, then start wiggling partial sections of the door harness (panel removed) until you light the lamp.
I'm convinced that the problem is in the switch or door wiring. Don't overlook right where the wire harness goes through the door into the kickpanel. Open and close the door to flex that area and wiggle the protective boot by hand to test that area.
Thanks for the help...that headlight trick worked great...much better than trial and error blowing fuses.
The bundle of wires that runs to the driver's side door was rubbing against the metal inside the rubber tube from kick panel to door, exposing the wires to each other and bare metal. The plastic has scraped off 3 wires, causing the short.
Fixed the wires, fixed the short. Could have saved myself some money and time, I replaced the driver's side switch set a few months ago...didnt' fix the problem. Took both passenger door panels off last night before posting this.
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