My Haynes manual shows a picture of a head gasket and points to the bolt holes in the gasket with numbers for the torque sequence something like this:
(O's are cylinders)
The way I did it was number one bolt when working on passanger side was 2nd from front of vehicle. Number one bolt when working on drivers side was second bolt from firewall. Is this correct?
I do not think it makes a lot of difference. The idea is to start kind of in the middle on one side, and work evenly toward the outside. As opposed to starting at the ends and working toward the middle. Makes even less difference if you torqued all the bolts to about 2/3 's of the final torque first and then to the final torque.
Dan
Dan
I torques to 30 foot pounds, then 50, then 105. (Book only said to do
50 then 105)
I torques to 30 foot pounds, then 50, then 105. (Book only said to do
50 then 105) *************************Retorque them in a few weeks after a number of heat cycles.
What everybody else said. Start near the middle and torque toward the ends. In this way, you "iron out" the mating surfaces.
It never hurts to bring up the torque in small increments rather than large steps.
You wont go wrong on this.
What does the real factory service manual say?
I was taught to start near the middle and work outwards in a circle. Stepped torquing is a good thing too. With the head specs in "modern" engines that give a torque spec plus 90 degrees retorquing isn't an option.
chris
I was taught to start near the middle and work outwards in a circle. Stepped torquing is a good thing too. With the head specs in "modern" engines that give a torque spec plus 90 degrees retorquing isn't an option.
chris
The torque-to-yield tightening system provides both a more accurate clamping pressure and a reserve tension that will maintain the pressure without retensioning.
Don Young
I learned the hard way that there is only one source of information on how to work on your vehicle: the FSM. Haynes and Chiltons are much cheaper, for a very good reason. Working from anything other than a FSM is a really false economy (yes, I do in fact have the FSM for every vehicle I have ever owned, from the 1966 Dodge Charger to the 2007 Dodge Dakota, including the dear departed 1975 Toyota Corolla and others).
I don't know enough to agree or disagree with that, but it certainly makes retorquing impossible.
That will be fine. Stepping the torque up to spec is a good thing. So you start it yet?
Only if the manufacturer's manual says so.
So, I was interested in the torque-to-yield system, and I sumbled across this pretty interesting web site:
Yes, that's a terrific site -- I hadn't seen it before, thanks for the link.
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