Re: Dual PCVs On Chev 350?

What you folks say makes sense but here's the part I don't understand (sorry - didn't give complete info in my first post):

Aside from the PCV holes, the only other hole is the oil fill in the passenger side. The cap, which sure looks like OEM, is the screw-in, NON-breather type - in fact, it has the rubber gasket to seal it to the cover. The covers and cap were on the car when I got it - took them off to clean them up and found the rubber parts are toast. Anyway, it seems to run OK.

Although...it sometimes dies on cold start and it idles a little high - maybe to compensate for lean mixture? And, I've had trouble with oil leaks - maybe vacuum breaking the gasket seal?

I was looking for a plug in the auto parts stores but I just remembered the local hardware store has some polyethelene button plugs that might work. Sounds like I also may be looking for a breather cap for the oil fill.

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Reply to
chudwuh
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There's your problem. Plymouths aren't meant to have Chivvy engines. They're meant to have Mopar engines. You should've built or bought one of those, instead.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

You all probably are sick of this thread but I thought you might like to know how the project came out.

Upon closer inspection of the after-market air cleaner, I found an unused 5/8" hose nipple - pretty obvious but I still missed it the first time around. I got two new PCV grommets at the local Chevy dealer. The grommets have a 3/4" hole - course the valve goes in the driver side. For the passenger side, the local AutoZone has a plastic elbow ("Help" brand mentioned by Mike Romain) that is 3/4" on one end and 5/8" on the other - it's even a 45-degree bend which should fit better than a 90 would. It's listed as a Ford part. A piece of 5/8" hose to connect to the air cleaner and I'm in business for under $20, including new valve, hose, and non-vented oil cap. Pretty simple, but all your posts really helped me understand how the system is supposed to work and what I needed to do to fix it.

Now I just need to finish stripping the paint off the covers, which is why I took them off in the first place. Yes, somebody actually painted nice cast aluminum valve covers - a coat of primer and a coat of enamel. At least I don't have to take the blame for that one! Here's a tip - some stuff called Aircraft Remover made by Klean Strip (disclaimer - it probably causes cancer, impotence, and bad breath). I found it at Bumper-to-Bumper. Not cheap - $9 for an 18-oz spray can. But it works way better than the Bix I tried first - although it still takes a couple of coats and scrubbing with steel wool. The fins on the covers are polished and I'll buff them up with progressively finer sandpaper, ending with 1500-grit. By the time I'm done, I'll have $30 - $40 (and a whole lot of work) in them - about what a pair of chromed steel covers would cost but I think these are way cooler.

OK, bring on the wisecracks about Ford parts on a Chevy engine in a Plymouth coupe - guess that's street rodding!

Reply to
chudwuh

Good job! Not to be nit picky, but is the 5/8 nipple in the *filtered air* area of the air cleaner? If not, you still need to put a filter in there. H

Reply to
Hairy

Yeah, it's inside the filter.

Reply to
chudwuh

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