Re: Dual PCVs On Chev 350?

Jun 02, 2005 Last reply: 21 years ago 4 Replies
C

What you folks say makes sense but here's the part I don't understand (sorry - didn't give complete info in my first post):



Aside from the PCV holes, the only other hole is the oil fill in the passenger side. The cap, which sure looks like OEM, is the screw-in, NON-breather type - in fact, it has the rubber gasket to seal it to the cover. The covers and cap were on the car when I got it - took them off to clean them up and found the rubber parts are toast. Anyway, it seems to run OK.



Although...it sometimes dies on cold start and it idles a little high - maybe to compensate for lean mixture? And, I've had trouble with oil leaks - maybe vacuum breaking the gasket seal?



I was looking for a plug in the auto parts stores but I just remembered the local hardware store has some polyethelene button plugs that might work. Sounds like I also may be looking for a breather cap for the oil fill.


snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:



I have a pair of nice cast aluminum valve covers for the '74 Chev
> truck 350 in my street rod. Both have identical PCV holes so the valve
> can be placed on either side depending on application. On mine, the
> driver side has a rubber grommet for the valve and the passenger side
> has a rubber plug. Both parts are too deteriorated to use. Problem
> is, my local Chevy dealer can order the grommet but they have no
> listing for the plug. I've looked for an after-market plug but I
> haven't found one that fits. I really want to use the covers so I'm
> thinking of putting a grommet and valve in each side and connecting
> them to the intake with a "T" fitting. Is there any reason I
> should NOT do this?
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D

There's your problem. Plymouths aren't meant to have Chivvy engines. They're meant to have Mopar engines. You should've built or bought one of those, instead.

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C

You all probably are sick of this thread but I thought you might like to know how the project came out.

Upon closer inspection of the after-market air cleaner, I found an unused 5/8" hose nipple - pretty obvious but I still missed it the first time around. I got two new PCV grommets at the local Chevy dealer. The grommets have a 3/4" hole - course the valve goes in the driver side. For the passenger side, the local AutoZone has a plastic elbow ("Help" brand mentioned by Mike Romain) that is 3/4" on one end and 5/8" on the other - it's even a 45-degree bend which should fit better than a 90 would. It's listed as a Ford part. A piece of 5/8" hose to connect to the air cleaner and I'm in business for under $20, including new valve, hose, and non-vented oil cap. Pretty simple, but all your posts really helped me understand how the system is supposed to work and what I needed to do to fix it.

Now I just need to finish stripping the paint off the covers, which is why I took them off in the first place. Yes, somebody actually painted nice cast aluminum valve covers - a coat of primer and a coat of enamel. At least I don't have to take the blame for that one! Here's a tip - some stuff called Aircraft Remover made by Klean Strip (disclaimer - it probably causes cancer, impotence, and bad breath). I found it at Bumper-to-Bumper. Not cheap - $9 for an 18-oz spray can. But it works way better than the Bix I tried first - although it still takes a couple of coats and scrubbing with steel wool. The fins on the covers are polished and I'll buff them up with progressively finer sandpaper, ending with 1500-grit. By the time I'm done, I'll have $30 - $40 (and a whole lot of work) in them - about what a pair of chromed steel covers would cost but I think these are way cooler.

OK, bring on the wisecracks about Ford parts on a Chevy engine in a Plymouth coupe - guess that's street rodding!

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H

Good job! Not to be nit picky, but is the 5/8 nipple in the *filtered air* area of the air cleaner? If not, you still need to put a filter in there. H

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