1989 Cressida overheat problem

7MGE Overheating problem,have checked cap, temporarily removed thermostat, replaced pump,(old one sheet metal impeller new one cast iron impeller) The old one looked ok.The radiator looks fairly new (dont think it is blocked) It overheats fairly rapidly (10 mile trip)and forces through the cap.The guage goes higher than it used to.While moving constantly at 60 mph the guage stays a bit over normal ,in slow traffic it shoots up. The engine seems to be running ok (no missing runs smooth) No water in oil, no muck seemes to be getting in coolant.No engine system warning light Fan seem to push a lot of air. It eventually pushes the water out of the system till you have to stop, wait to lose the head of steam and refil to get home

All that is left that I can think of is leaks in block or head, or timing Has any one got any ideas ? Does this engine have this problem a lot?

Reply to
F Murtz
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Yup. These engines are notorious for blowing head gaskets...

However, this does not appear to be your problem, we hope...

This car probably has a mechanical fan clutch, and the oil has lost it's efficiency or has just leaked out enough to not work any more. You can test this by running the car until it just starts to go above normal, SHUT THE ENGINE OFF!!! and try to spin the fan. If it spins freely, you need to replace the fan clutch. If it is fairly stiff you have another problem.

You can try this:

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(Wish these instructions were around when I tried to do mine...)

using the oil listed on this page:

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if you have a lot of patience and don't mind smelling like oil for a day or two. I gave up and got one of these:

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(Wow...talk about pissing me off!!! $40?!?! It was $65 when I bought mine!!!!)

From your description, I don't think you have the gasket problem. Cross your fingers and check your fan!

Good Luck!

Reply to
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

If there is radiator fluid in the engine, then leaks are not the problem.

You left out some details, like the year of the vehicle (I think it is more than 15 years old, according to wikipedia, they last sold a car with the engine in it in 1992 model year), the mileage of the car, and whether the heater works.

I suspect that in a 15 to 20 year old car, the problem is the radiator.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

If the engine is running hot when the vehivle is running at 100 km/hr (highway speeds), then there is likely another problem, like a blocked radiator. It is not clear from the post if the engine is running at normal temperature at highway speeds or not (OP says a bit above normal, but I am not sure what he means).

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

That's what I though, but Ray tipped me about the fan.

On a 60 degree day the car was overheating at 65 MPH. This engine runs hot, and is a large engine in a not so large space.

From his description that's what it sounds like. If it were a more drastic problem the engine might cool at slower speeds or a stop.

Let's hope for Fred's sake it's the fan! ;)

Reply to
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

I have only had the car for 6 months. The radiator looks brand new as if it has been replaced recently. The previous owner said something about coolant problems but I found the pipe in the overflow tank had fallen off so that it was not returning to radiator on cooling but I fixed that and no problem till now. I will check fan but when idling it seems to shift a lot of air if you put your hand behind it

Reply to
F Murtz

One reminder, the more often you drive it overheated, the more likely YOU WILL replace the head gasket.

Three things: Radiator: Cheap Fan: Cheap Radiator Cap: Extremely Cheap but usually an easy thing to forget.

Don't bother paying to have the radiator repaired when NAPA has them available.

(btw, sold my 89 Cressida to buy a Lexus, 280K on it, got 4500 :)

Reply to
Gary L. Burnore

Lexus what? If it's an SC, I *WILL* be jealous!

Reply to
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

LS460L

Well I did manage go get the color I wanted WITH the 10K seating package for free since "someone ordered it and didn't pick it up". (I've heard that line before). Does that help?

Reply to
Gary L. Burnore

As Hachiroku mentioned, it is probably the fan clutch. Checking the air with the engine running is not a good indicator because even freewheeling fan blades will move some air. Let the engine get hot, shut the engine off, wait for the fan to stop spinning, and then see if you can spin it easily. If it spins easily when hot and the engine is off, the clutch is bad.

Reply to
Ray O

1989 usually means the year.

You can not say that with certainty, especially with the Cressida. Those of us who've owned them and don't just google, know better.

A compression test is the ONLY way to know if his head isn't cracked and/or gasket isn't blown.

Reply to
Gary L. Burnore

Maybe there is air in the system, there should be bleed ports did you open them.

Reply to
ransley

Maybe there is air in the system, there should be bleed ports did you open them.

************ AFAIK, the Cressida does not have bleed ports.
Reply to
Ray O

Perhaps he should post that question in alt.antique.toyota NG, if there is such a thing?

If there is radiator fluid in the engine, then leaks are not the problem.

You left out some details, like the year of the vehicle (I think it is more than 15 years old, according to wikipedia, they last sold a car with the engine in it in 1992 model year), the mileage of the car, and whether the heater works.

I suspect that in a 15 to 20 year old car, the problem is the radiator.

Jeff

Reply to
Mike Hunter

You should know that cars are not considered antique until they are 25 years old or more. And this car is less than that. As you know, cars can last as daily runners for far more than 25 years if they are in a place where there is not much salt used on the roads.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

Killfileing the top posting fool is not a bad thing.

Reply to
Gary L. Burnore

Thanks to every one I think I have fixed it.I put a second hand fan clutch on and it seems to be behaving.Test on longer trip tomorrow.

Ps while doing all this I got the impression that the cast iron impeller water pump rather than pressed metal is more efficient as it held temp lower than the old one (this was before I changed fan)

Reply to
F Murtz

If you listen to me, I'll try not to steer you wrong ;-)

As for the cast iron impeller water pump being more efficient than the pressed metal one, my guess is that the cast iron impeller either fits in the cavity more efficiently or the shape of the impeller blades is more efficient. The material that the impeller is made of shouldn't make that much difference.

Reply to
Ray O

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