HELP!

Most likely a bad control switch, it gores through BOTH the passenger side switch and the driver-side door switch and either one with one bad contact can cause this - unless it's one of those 'both switches on the center console' set-ups.

The switches pass both the + and - to the motor, so the ground side can go bad as well as the power. When testing, you have to watch for solid power into the motor and solid ground out at the same time, polarity depending on whether you're calling for Up or Down.

The other big problem on heavily used cars is a broken wire in the door jamb wiring harness to the door - if that window only works when the door is open halfway, there's your clue.

But you also need to get a can of spray silicone lubricant and apply it VERY SPARINGLY to the rubber fuzzies in the door channel. If the glass is sticking in the channel that won't help any.

-->--

By any chance, does the master control switch on the driver's door get wet often, like driving with the driver's window cracked open in the rain? If so, check out the master switch.

With the motor removed, see if you can move the regulator up and down manually. If it binds on the way up, the regulator may be bent or needs lubrication.

The way most window motors stop and start is with a bi metal switch inside the motor housing that when heated as with resistance in traveling full up or down, opens the circuit and removes electrical power from the motor, stopping the window travel at that point. Try "helping" the window up by pulling up on the top of it as you select up on the door switch. If it works consistently by "helping", you either have a some light resistance in the regulator/track mechanism, or as I mentioned, the switch in the motor is going bad. I think that the reason it works for you after a few hours is that you are working the motor from dead cold, which will extend the bi metal cut out until repeated actuations heat soak the entire motor including the switch IMHO. Good luck.