Right axle removal on 90 Camry

If I remember correctly, there is a 12mm bolt on the bottom of that bearing housing that needs to be removed in order for the axle to be removed. But even then, I've never come across one of these that didn't come out without the help of an air hammer and a big ass pry bar. Two people make it easier sometimes.

I've become a great fan of Kroil especially after it helped me remove a water pump bolt from my '77 Toyota truck after the head broke off and vice grips just marred the threads. After soaking in Kroil for a couple of days, it was removed with no damage to the threads in the block. I sprayed that bearing bracket with Kroil and the axle just slipped right out - I could have just been the exception though, but it seemed to work well for me. They say it will penetrate areas down to a millionth of an inch and dissolve rust. Kroil's been around for decades. I believe that bearing carrier bracket is cast iron, so rust is a definite possibility. You do need to remove the bearing lock bolt on the underside of the bearing bracket too. I also used Kroil on that lower fuel filter bolt that has given many people trouble. Had some other work on the car so it soaked for a couple of days - came loose easily in a matter of seconds. I buy mine on the Internet, but I understand gun shops sometimes carry it.

I have some PB Blaster which came highly recommended. I just sprayed a ton of it into the bearing bracket. I'll give it a day to soak in and then try again.

I took a close look at the bracket and don't see a bolt on the bottom. Are you describing a bolt that holds the bracket to the block or a bolt that is holding the bearing in the bracket?

Thanks, George

I don't see this bolt on mine. As far as using a pry bar, can you suggest a way to do this? Where do I place the pry bar in order to move the axle? I'll try placing a pair of visegrips somewhere along the axle to see if I can get some purchase that way.

You know, I can't exactly picture the bottom of your car. When I was talking about the bolt, I was refering to the following generation (92 and on), so that intel might be off. We don't see many cars that old at the dealer anymore. As far as leverage placement, the inner portion of the axle (just outside the diff) should have a plastic or metal housing that has a notch or two you can get a grab on. I put a pry on that while someone else beats the mother out of the bearing housing with an air hammer. I'm not sure of your intent, but if CV boot replacement is all that is required you can always just remove the axle from the inner CV boot and out by disassembing the inner joint. Hope this helps.

That could explain why I don't see the that bolt on the bearing bracket. I've seen it mentioned in other forums but mostly for newer models.

Replacement of the outer CV joint is exactly what I need to do. The car stopped moving and when I pushed it into my garage and jacked it up, the ball bearings fell out of the boot nearest the hub. :o)

I disassembled the wheel and gave the middle axle a tug and it came off at the middle boot. Mind you, I was trying to pull the whole axle out of the transmission so I pulled pretty hard and when the boot slipped off, I landed right on my ass, HeeHee.

I took the halfshaft to my local Auto Zone and they said they couldn't get the parts. It sure looks like all I need is a kit to rebuild the outer CV joint or a rebuilt halfshaft. I've searched online but all I can find is the whole axle.

I'll bring it to a dealer next to see if they will sell me the parts.

Thanks, George

qslim wrote:

Around here - Calgary Canada, a rebuilt or brand new aftermarket axle is pretty reasonable in cost, around 85-95.00 exchanged, complete with warranty. Ie: if anything goes wrong, you can get a replacement as opposed to if you screw something up rebuilding your old axle you're s.o.l.