It's finally time to replace the right side outer boot on my '97 SE with
195k miles. Having already done the left side, and the right side on my wife's Altima, I thought it would be easy. Well, the axle is not coming out. I think it's stuck at the support bearing (yes, I did remove the three bolts). I tried to use the slide hammer, but the outer joint came off the shaft instead. So I sprayed the bearing with PB Blaster and called it a day.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Fil
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N
NissTech
use a hammer and a punch and try to rotate the wheel side of the support collar,once it starts to turn you should be able to get it out
F
Filipp Stepanov
I tried your suggestion, but it still won't come lose. How hard should I hit? I'm afraid I'll break it.
Maybe I should try a strap wrench? I don't have one, need to go and buy it.
If I can't take it out, I should still be able to replace the boot and put the joint back on. Right?
Thanks!
N
NissTech
you are going the need to hit it a pretty good lick, you are not going to break it unless you hit it with a sledge hammer
G
genius
on my 91, NissTech said don't be afraid to "persuade it a bit" so it took a breaker bar, BFH and everything I had to pop it out. So far, there are no leaks and I did replace the drive axle (old one was pretty battered)
HTH,
Derek
R
Ralph Pardue
I just finished the job on my Son's 99 Maxima. The passenger side was a tough mother. I used a punch and a hammer to slowly rotate the bastard flange that the 3 bolts go through. I sprayed a bit of PBB after each 1/4 turn. It took a bit of work, but I finally won. When I reinstalled everything, I applied a generous application of high temp anti-seize. That should make it easier next time.
Later, Ralph
F
Filipp Stepanov
Lying on my back under the car, there's not much room for a good swing. In the end I was not able to separate the support bearing from the bracket. I cleaned everything, greased the cv joint and put everything back on without any problems.
Also, at the same time I replaced the control arm bushings and ball joints. I could not remove the old bushings myself (they were original, I drove 195k on them). I ended up taking the control arms to a machine shop, and a day and $106 bucks later I got my control arms back. Everything is back on the car now, and the test drive showed that going over bumps is significantly quieter.
In a hindsight, having paid $106 for the bushing replacement, $40 for the bushings and $40 for the ball joints I was just $100 shy of getting brand new control arms from Nissan. ( I know, NissTech, I should've done it right :-))
Also, this job was a major PITA. The control arm bolts mandated that I get a breaker bar and put a metal pipe on it to remove them. I think I've satisfied my curiosity about how the suspension works and what it takes to work on it. I definitely bit more than I could chew with this job.
Thanks to everyone for their help and moral support!
Fil
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