Tire wear..

Hello- I own a 2003 Tundra 4wd and the tires are wearing very quickly.. I only have 11k miles on the truck and the tires almost didn't pass the NYS inspection this month! Does anyone have any ideas or similar problems with tires on the Tundra? Thanks for any info...

PC

Reply to
Paul
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The factory tires suck. That's S-U-C-K.

You should get much better wear on the replacements.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Sounds like the factory Dunlops?

Reply to
Wolfgang

Hello- I own a 2003 Tundra 4wd and the tires are wearing very quickly.. I only have 11k miles on the truck and the tires almost didn't pass the NYS inspection this month!

Paul - what brand of oem's are these?

Reply to
spacetrax

"Paul" sez:

The OEM rubber is traditionally bottom of the barrel stuff and may be further aggravated by improper or absent tire rotation practices. I didn't even wait for the Dunlops on my Tundra to wear off the injection nipples before yanking them off and replacing them with some quality Michelin LTX M/S in 265/75x16 load range E.

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These tires will deliver upwards of 60,000 mi. and even more if your driving is a mix of urban and highway. I have near 40,000 mi. on mine and they still have over 2/3 of the tread left. Quality tires may cost a bit more up front but they will deliver value as they'll last a lot longer than inexpensive ones. To me, that's value.

Do some shopping for high rated tires for your type of driving on:

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A particular tire that everyone really likes is the Revo:

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I have these on a second set of 17" rims and the missus has 'em on her Sequoia. They have better dry traction and *much* better wet/snow traction than the Michelins but won't yield the long life. I run the Michelins in the summer, the Revos in the winter and even put on the studded snows (mounted on a third set of fugly steel rims) if its going to be on the roads for more than a few days.

Good traction to ya, VLJ

Reply to
vlj

Very unusual tire wear even for the mediocre OEM tires.

Get the front end alignment checked. Find a shop with a Hunter alignment rack. Get a 4-wheel thrust alignment where they precisely measure the exact direction of thrust of the rears and align the fronts to that. Have the shop align the toe-in and camber to the exact center of the spec, and set the caster to the maximum allowable. The factory specs are too wide for good alignment, so just setting to "factory spec" is not acceptable. What I listed above are within factory spec, so the shop has no beef.

Check your tire pressure. I don't like the factory recommended pressure. I like 35 front and 32 rear for an empty truck.

Ken

Reply to
Ken Shelton

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