adequate torque wrench

Can't answer your question, but the following may be of use with respect to the _type_ of torque wrench.

You asked ...........you had to go and ask................

There is a need for two torque wrenches of diferent sizes.........maybe three if you want to do the work without a torquemeister...............one for the samll stuff, oil strainer coverplate,and other small stuff,.................one sized for the medium sized studs and case bolts and rod bolts, and that sized stuff,...............and like I said before, one that'll torque too a million Nm for the axel nuts and the gland nut on the flywheel.................Is that Metric enough?......LOL

( sorry I didn;t get specific with Metric stuff, but I still have not found my Books since the wife cleaned up around Christmas.)

Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB®

I have a torquemeister setup...... what would the torque be when using one of these to install a gland nut and/or axle nut? I used a 3/8 ratchet to pull a gland nut off easily so I can't imagine it being a whole lot.....

Mac

Well i've checked in the haynes manual for torque setting and it appears that it is engine related. I have a manual for a 1200 cc, 30 and 34 Bhp... The minimum of torque for these engines is 5 lb/ft or 0.7 mkg. This is for the oil strainer cover nuts. (?) The max torque for this engine is 33lb/ft or 4.5mkg for the crankshaft pulley nut and the oil drain plug. No sorry, the max torque is on the flywheel screw..: 217 lb/ft or 30.0 mkg. Same as those darn axelshaft nuts However these are on a 1200 cc engine! Although i guess these settings are not too different on any other engine.

Roger

"Ant" schreef in bericht news:c08ci6$6vk$ snipped-for-privacy@news.tudelft.nl...

-Don't worry about the miminum torque, nowadays it's difficult to get a wrench that is accurate down to 5 lb ft.

-The max torque is NOT the flywheel, it's (why do I always end up talking about them???) Axle nuts, don't you hate them? they go to 250Lb.ft.

Karls

Hi Ant

Torque wrenches go like this: the higher the max torque, the less precise it is with the lower numbers. Also, when you get a 30 or 40 M. Kg wrench, it's WAY too big for many places where a 3-10 m kg would be enough. So, get at least 2 torque wrenches, one that goes up to 30-40Mkg for axle nuts, gland nuts and things like that, then see the lowest number on it, probably 10-15, and get the other one from 0 to about 5 to 10 mkg more than the lowest number on the big one. This way you'll have lets say, a 0-20 and a 15-35, so beetween 15 and 20 (or 10 and 20) you'll have a big one and a short one to handle any jobs.

One last word, if you can afford handle selector types, don't get needle types, they are nice since can go from 0 to wherever the have as a max setting, but are really inaccurate and kids love to bend the needles and make them point everywhere but 0. Been there, done that.

Hope this helps. Karls

I wish I could answer that outright. Not having the torquemeister, I am left the Large Torque wrench set-up................It works well fo rme. I plan on buying a torquemeister someday. I think that makes a ton more sense to controllability. Some folks on the group here have noted the torques needed at one time or another. I remember them posting the info.............just can't remember what they were. Sorry

Anyone know the torque values????

Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB®

Well, I have a selector type and a bar type, both Craftsmann. I did some testing on each.

As far as accuracy goes, my bar wrench is accurate at least to within the mass of the handle. My selector (click type) wrench read 22 ft/lbs with the same test weight that read a true 30 on the bar wrench.

See

No need to rely on some shop to calibrate it for you.

But I prefer the bar wrench for another reason. As I torque a nut, I have a continuous reading of how much torque has been applied. With the selector wrench, I have no feedback until it "clicks".

PS: When I was a kid, I used one of my father's wood chisels to open a paint can. My dad was impressed that I had found unsuspected versatility in what he thought was a single-purpose tool. Inspired, he began trying other things with the chisel. At length we found that the handle of this incredible tool was also good for rapping the knuckles of small boys so that they would always remember to use the correct tool for each job.

I still pry with screwdrivers occasionally. But the knuckles know. ;-)

Don't let the kids near your precision tools.

I think the Torquemeister is just a gear-reduction unit, and acts as a torque multiplier. If the advantage is 1 to 12, applying 10 ft/lbs to the input yields 120 ft/lbs. So you still need a torque-wrench to measure what you are putting in. Then do the math.

Save your money. Leverage is just a breaker-bar and a pipe away.

To torque the gland nut or rear-axel castle nuts, simply stand on the breaker-bar (with the pipe if neccessary) at the correct distance to get the desired torque on the nut. I weight about 200 lbs. To get 300 ft/lbs on the gland nut, I stand on the pipe 18" from the nut. If you weight 300 lbs, stand 12 inches out.

Use an anti-torque device to avoid prat-falls of course.

To loosen the gland nut (for example) I just do this:

http://63.230.74.177/ghia/MVC-403F.JPG If the levers are long enough, I can break the nut loose with just arm strength.

Max

...............You look like Tim the Tool Man's neighbor in that show 'Home Improvement'.

LOL

Hehe!

Is this better?

http://63.230.74.177/ghia/MVC-404F.JPG Max

All you need is a torque wrench that gives you the SAME reading, time after time after time. Consistently without fatique or wear. The absolute value it shows is LESS important. Even torque on all nuts and bolts you are tightening is what matters. They can be 10-15% off from the recommended torque value, but only if they ALL are.

I have a habit of over-torquing stuff with my click-type wrench by a hair.

There are also many things that affect the final reading, such as rust or dirt in the threads, or oil, or locking compound, or copper paste...

Jan

I believe the axle nut is not on the engine... :-))) Then again, my manual says 217 lb/ft or 30 mkg for the axle nut. I know for a fact that it is 36 mkg.(.....or more........., Oil leaking and all that...) Am I going nuts.......... or is the book???

Roger

"Karls Vladimir Peña" schreef in bericht news:c0c5i7$152ba3$ snipped-for-privacy@ID-209996.news.uni-berlin.de...

On many things, sure. But on something like cylinder head nuts, I want

Anyway, when it's so easy to get it right, why not know for sure?

... blond or brunette?

Never mind. ;-)

Of course. Clean is good.

Max