CAR WON'T START!?!

It won't start. I checked the carb: getting fuel, float not stuck. I checked the fuel pump: seems fine. I basically narrowed it down to ignition problems. I checked my timing, and set it to 5 degrees. My points seems to be fine, good gap. What else could it be!>??! it cranks over, but won't fire. Im going to pull the plugs, and check those. But after that im lost. Anyways, its a 1973 standard beetle. 1776 cc engine with nothing special. Ummm, don't know what other info you will need. I have gone through the Muir Book, an di own just about every other manual... Thanks for your help/ ~Peace~Justin

Reply to
Nxqzablesk8er
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On my web site, read: "Why won't my engine start?"

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Are all the electrical connections hooked up? I've had a few shaky ones that kept beasts from roaring.

~Peace~Justin

Reply to
MN AirHead

Have you checked to see if you're getting spark? If so, check your plugs, They may be fouled. You say you cleaned the points, presumably you checked the gap (?). If you're not getting spark, check the ignition wire to the coil. Is the push on in good shape? Have you checked your battery connection and ground? You could also check the fuse to the ignition. Just a few thoughts...if you check all the items recommended by the group, check back on this thread..) Let us know what you find... John

Reply to
dragoneyre

haha, get this. I tried to ark my coil wire...no spark...i tried to ark the spark plug wire...no spark. Bad coil?? Went and bought a new one, still NO SPARK!! I can't find a wiring diagram. But i have 3 wires on the right side connectors, and 2 on the other...is that right?? Am i missing one? All the wirers leaving the coil are connected to the right places. I can't find a new coil wire though, could that be the prob?? I dunno what to do, but i know im not getting spark... How can i check the ignition fuse? Thanks ~Peace~Justin

Reply to
Justin D

On 16 Sep 2003 18:33:04 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Justin D) ran around screaming and yelling:

check your points and condensor... J

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

This seems wrong.

On the (+) side of the coil's primary (usually the left side, but you should check the markings on the coil), there should be connected two or three wires: the black wire coming from the ignition switch (wire from the loom), the wire going to the carb (solenoid valve and automatic choke heater element) and possibly a wire for the reverse light. On the (-) side of the coil, only one wire should be connected, the green wire going to the distributor, except if you have installed an rpm-meter, in which case you should have a second wire.

By the way, how did you set the advance timing to 5 degrees if you had no spark? If you did it by connecting a light bulb between the (-) side of the coil and the earth and whatching when it comes on and off, then you have allready verified that you have power when the ignition is on, the points are good and the condenser is not shorcircuited. With this method, the spark occurs when the bulb just lights while turning the crank clockwise.

Bill, '67 bug.

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

If the car is equipped with the central "computer" test socket, there is also grey/green wire going from the minus side to the harness.

Reply to
Olli Lammi

I have a similar problem Sometime it can go for about two days then it will shut down at the wrong place, the last time it did in my driveway, that was two weeks ago, I had replaced coil, rebuild carb, gas line fuel filter, points, plugs, cable, but still the same problem if I take the points out and put it back in place an regap it it will startup and run for awaile. the condenser was replaced also but there is a small hole on it, I wonder if that is shorting out the ignition, because some times I can not get a spark on the point but can get a spark on distributor shaft. what is the condencer job?

jrvwbuggin

Reply to
jrvwbuggin

By looking at Jims wiring diagram, im pretty sure i have it wired up correctly. I do have an RPM gauge, so i do have an extra wire. I need to check for juice coming from the black.

As for the timing, i guessed it. I got to TDC when the rotor was where #1 fires, i then loosened the distributor, and turned it until the points open when around 5 degrees. I do notice though, that the points will stay open for a good amount of time on each side of 5 degrees. But right now, my main problem is not getting a spark.

Lets say i have juice coming to the coil, what else could it be??? Where can i find a new coil wire? without having to buy a whole spark set.Thanks ~Peace~Justin

Reply to
Justin D

disconnect wire from coil to distributor. get another wire and with the ignition on, jump from negative side of coil to ground for one second. you must get a spark or the coil is bad...

Reply to
Eduardo Kaftanski

What I mean, is that if I use a screwdriver to open the point to check for spark at the point contact. I don't see the spark. If I check for spark with a screwdriver at the connection between the condenser and point by shorting it to the shaft, then I get a spark from the screwdriver to the shaft. Then If I remove the point and put it back with the proper gap it works for about a few hrs, then I am back to square one. Leaving me stranded in the wrong place and time of the day (Rush hr.).

Reply to
jrvwbuggin

Reply to
Gary

Does anyone live in Bay area that could help me out??? Im pretty sure my coil doesn't have spark, and my points are gapped good. I can't get a spark coming out of the coil wire. Bill, can i have your number so i can call you and talk, sometimes its hard to understand what is being typed. Im not sure what the condesor is. Thanks ~Peace~Justin

Reply to
Justin D

Can anyone help me out?? Thanks ~Peace~Justin

Reply to
Justin D

FIXED IT!!! I sanded the contacts on the coil wire, and whalah! It hard starts every once in a while though. Im going to replace spark plugs, and all the wires. Thanks ~Peace~Justin

Reply to
Justin D

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