engine stand for running engine in

Greetings, all, So after a couple year hiatus, I'm back with another question. I've decided to burn in my engine I'm building out of the bus, and need some ideas on how to construct an engine stand that will hold the fully assembled engine, supply fuel and electricity safely, and leave me with that lovin' feeling. Any ideas, pictures, measured drawings, or autocad files? Or am I on my Ben Franklin-makin'-stuff-up-using-my native-wits own?

Glenn Roesener Air-cooled, as God intended

Reply to
ubergoober
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I will upload pictures of such a test bench soon. Just need to take them first :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

http://66.225.214.60/enginestand/ http://66.225.214.60/ghia/First_Fire.htm Max

Reply to
max_welton_2k

What is that upside down cake pan with the two switches for?

Reply to
Michael Cecil

Great stuff, Max. Do you do all this AND work a regular job? I'm impressed!

Reply to
johnboy

One switch is for the ignition, the other is for the fuel pump.

Reply to
max_welton_2k

*disappointed*

So there's no cake? Shoot, it would be neat to be able to cook something sweet on the exhaust header while you're tweaking the engine.

Reply to
Michael Cecil

Simple:

1) Bolt the engine & starter to an old transaxle. 2) Hook up a battery with cables going to the ground (engine bolt) & the hot (starter). 3) Hook up a hot wire to the battery with an aligator clip to hook to the coil. 4) Hook up a fuel line from a "can" (any gas can placed away from the exhaust) to the fuel pump. All of this can simply be sitting on the floor. Use an old screwdriver to jump across the starter leads to start it - remove the clip from the coil to kill it. Any questions? ;^p ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Pardon my driving, I'm reloading.

Reply to
ThaDriver

I have the bell housing from an old tranny that I bolt up to the front of the engine. Mount the starter to it, put the engine on a block of wood, support the heater boxes, jumper cables to the starter, wire to the coil, screwdriver to jump the terminals on the starter..

peanutbutter jar full of gas, connected to fuel pump, hanging from shop ceiling.

vw engines sound funny without exhaust pipes installed.

Jen

Reply to
jboothbee

"ubergoober" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... | Greetings, all, | So after a couple year hiatus, I'm back with another question. I've | decided to burn in my engine I'm building out of the bus, and need some | ideas on how to construct an engine stand that will hold the fully | assembled engine, supply fuel and electricity safely, and leave me with | that lovin' feeling. Any ideas, pictures, measured drawings, or | autocad files? Or am I on my Ben Franklin-makin'-stuff-up-using-my | native-wits own? | | Glenn Roesener | Air-cooled, as God intended

I have a cut away transaxle that serves only to hold the starter. A battery, pair of jumper cables for starter power, some plain wire or Radio Shack jumpers for ignition and starter, and a hose from a nearby gas can will provide all you need to run the engine. Sit it on the ground or some blocks. I once used my heavy and slow half inch drill motor to start the motor when I didn't have the bellhousing. Yeah, it looks weird, but if you look in that book by Muir, one of the books shows in the background a motor running sitting on a 55 gallon drum. There were bets being taken on when it would blow up!

Reply to
carl mciver

Yep, that's the way to do it. And if you cut open the transaxle side, it can double as a fixture to set the shift forks!

Oh...add one item to the wiring: an alarm bell on the Oil sender.

Reply to
Speedy Jim

It has always been my understanding that after building a new engine you should break it in under a LOAD.

Not that you should punish it. But that you shouldn't baby it, either. Mainly, that you should be all over the map and avoid prolonged running at a steady speed.

Then change the oil, re-torque the heads, adjust the valves, and cut along the dotted line.

I don't know if this advice is accurate. But if so, breaking in a new engine on a test stand would seem to be contraintuitive. If, indeed that's what you're talking about doing.

VT

Reply to
vtuck

CAM and lifters are broken in without load, during the first 20 minutes of running at around 2000rpm. Engine speed may vary a little, but not drop below 1500. Keep it between 2000-3000.

after 20 minutes, turn the engine off, let it cool down, adjust/check the valves and change the oil and possible filter, and fill it up with new fresh mineral oil. Doesn't really matter much which weight oil you use, as long as it is not synthetic. No need for anything expensive, it will be changed again after about 100 miles of driving. And again at

500.

To break it in while driving, after the initial stationary 20 minute break-in: Drive the car normally, using roughly around 60-70% of engine power and rpm range. Do not baby it, juyst drive.. accelerate often in HIGH gear, fairly low rpms.. then let the engine decelerate the car.. do this "pumping" routine countless times, whenever there is an opportunity for it ion normal traffic without causing any danger or annoying other people. Keep doing that for a couple of days. Pedal to the metal in "too tall" gear, wait for it to pick up speed, then decelerate.. maybe downshift for better effect. This will seat the piuston rings properly.

Race engines get that 20 mins of initial break in, and then they are ready for just insane beating. :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

baywindow or wanagon (wasserboxer) clutch housing + regular motor stand.

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mine, but great idea though).

-J

Reply to
Jouko P. Kentt

Here's my version (on this page of tools)

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Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Is that the other weird J name I was trying to remember before starting war with Portugal?

K.

Reply to
Kidd Andersson

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