gene berg oil sump 210 material

Hi,

I've recently have acquired use gene berg oil sump which I believe to be 210 (from the measurements posted on gene berg's site). Apparently some has drilled and taped a whole on the side wall to accept an oil temp sender, however it is not straight and oil sender does not fully seat in the opening. So here is a question part. Does anybody know the material used for casting these sumps. Is it aluminum or magnesium? I would like to get it this opening welded up and re-drilled/taped. I've seen cautions in the Joe Cali manual on this topic toward having generator stand welded since some of them were made from magnesium which explodes when welded.

Thanks again, Anton

Reply to
anton
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anton kirjoitti:

Welding 101: Aluminum/magnesium or even pure magnesium metals do not explode when welded. They won't even catch fire, if the welder knows what he is doing and uses the proper tools. Even the VW alu/mag cases are frequently welded with no problems.

Hint: TIG welder, Argon gas, and high flow of gas for cooling.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

i wonder how many welders CB performance goes through welding plates on their "supercase"....or is it a special magnesium that "explodes" when you weld it?

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

I highly doubt mag explodes unless welded by some one that doesn't know what the hell they're doing.

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W

Okey, checking back into the manual. Says it can create problems, doesn't actually say explode, my bad, not sure how i got that wild idea. But I am still not clear what kind of problems it can create...

Should I just leave it along and keep the opening the way it is? just sucks that it's not straight...

Thanks, Anton

Anth> > >some of them were made from magnesium

Reply to
anton

Why can't you drill it out straight and then thread it for a sleeve adapter?

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W

are there any sleeves with OD of 20mm +? I am not exactly sure of the thread size on the oil sender, i think it's about 20mm.

Ant> ant> > Okey, checking back into the manual. Says it can create problems,

Reply to
anton

Couldn't the sealing surface be machined straight in relation to the threaded hole itself? Leave the hole as it is, but match the sealing surface to the angle of the hole.

Besides, I would expect a sensor to have pipe threads, that get tighter the deeper you turn it, and you never tighten it all the way down. (there is no sealing surface, no gasket). If the hole is too big, and the sensor gets "seated" before the threads tighten enough, you can use teflon tape on the threads to make them thicker, and seal them against leaks. You still need to find a way to ground the sensor for it to be able to send signal, I guess.

Jan

anton kirjoitti:

Reply to
Jan

Hi Jan,

I think you are correct about pipe threads. Sender does not go all the way in and must have pipe threads. I guess I could just try runing it as it is and if it leaks, either use teflon tape to seal it like a an oil presure switch. Sender is not fully seated so it should seal well and I should not have to resort to teflon. Ground should be sufficient throught the threads, if teflon tape is not used.

Thanks aga> Couldn't the sealing surface be machined straight in relation to the

Reply to
anton

Correct. Good luck!

Jan

anton kirjoitti:

Reply to
Jan

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