I kicked some wheel nut ahrss

Very cool idea.

Is there something wrong with using an air-impact on that nut?

On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 06:29:36 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@mychain.stafford.net (one_of_many) scribbled this interesting note:

Yes.

Remember there are wheel bearings not too far away from that nut. By using any kind of impact tool there you run the risk of installing micro-flats on those bearings which will cause them to fail sooner than they otherwise would have. By using the proper kind of leverage you avoid that problem completely.

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Aren't all four tires supposed to be on the ground when loosening that nut?

I would be scared to death to "bounce" on that cheater pipe with the car that far off the ground. ;) Even with the engine out.

Yeah, it was a bit scary. I slowly increased the torque, and yes, at times I was lifting the car momentarily. But I wasn't pushing it forward, just up.

Yes, but not my idea.. I can't take credit for it.

Our cars must have had the same mechanic. I just went through this with my '64 Bug. The axle nuts from Hell. I snapped a half inch breaker bar using a pipe extension, didn't have a three-quarter inch to try so I gave in and bought the "correct" tool which is used to tighten/loosen gland nuts and axle nuts.

sledge hammer. I wasn't going to try

I tried that... All I did was put rubber marks on my wheels from the mallet. I wasn't about to try a metal sledgehammer ;)

That CIP tool looks cool, but I can't seem to understand how it works from the picture. The nut is held constant and the wheel is turned or something? 30 in = 240 out is some good advantage. Got a picture of it in action? Looks like it would be good with a torque wrench that doesn't go up to 250 ft/lbs knowing the ratio the tool does.

I wish I knew about this tool a week ago.

The Torquemeister is a torque multiplier afforded by the gearing. I bought one years ago and have taken off wheel nuts, flywheel nuts, etc with it with east. You can take a flywheel off using one hand to hold the flywheel and one on a socket wrench handle. Tightening to 30 lbs on the handle = 8 X 30 or 240 lbs at the nut. Bob Hoover says never use one of those breakers that you whack with a sledge. Says it dmamges the wheel bearings. Tim Klopfenstein

I like how you brought the bike up to support the bar for the pic, or at least it looks like it ! James

Nah, just a lens effect. That bike's got more horsepower than the bug had, BTW. Now if the new engine I'm dropping into the Super can approach the P/W ratio my bike has... WOW..

let's guess..

Aww... Damn, I'll need more horsepower... Is that weight for a Super a proper guess?

"David Gravereaux" wrote

Pretty close, according to this site that lists the weight at 1918 lbs (870 kg):

I landed one of these beauties from craftsman, they call it a slide bar:

Only signs of wear after the fact was a slight warping of the pipe. ;)

I bought one of those after breaking my good old forged Craftsman 4-way lug wrench (the replacement was some cheapo version) on a stuck lug nut. Unfortunately it just bent like a pretzel on the same nut. Then I got one of these

"Michael Cecil" wrote

I also twisted one of those slide bars into a pretzel, though it was the

Dude, you rock. I think I got the angle iron idea from you.

"David Gravereaux" wrote

And to send props to the right place ... I believe I got the idea from Bob Hoover.

#1 - You should be comparing lbs. per hp. I get 7.43 for the bike & 12 for the VW (at 1918). I can't believe the bike isn't better than that. I expect to get 5 "lph" - or better (perhaps even 4) - with my V8 Z car. #2 - There is nothing wrong with using an impact on that nut (but not everyone has air tools). I've used an impact on mine several times, & never had a bearing fail. I've driven the car for over 25 years. #3 - Using the leverage of a long bar is good: the angle bolted to the lug nuts is a good way to break them off. I would try getting the emergengy brakes to work better, or have someone sit in the car & apply the brakes. I know - it was a last resort. If an impact won't break it, a good pipe wrench & long pipe works very well (I use my floorjack handle). #4 - I don't like the idea of hitting a bar/wrench/whatever with the sledge either. Good way to get hurt or break something. #5 - A good way to break loose tight lug nuts is to place a ballpein hammer on them (the rounded end), & hit it with a baby sledge. Always use safty goggles when doing so. Usually a couple good hits & they'll spin right off using a 4-way or bar. My 2 cents.. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

Why? The bike is a 1985 Honda VF700S (Sabre). It does weigh 535 lbs and claimed HP is 72 which is 100 HP/liter and right on the money for the time. Current bikes are around 130 HP/liter, though.

Now if the bike was a recent Kawasaki ZRX1200R lbs/hp would be

chevy small block in a datsun 280Z?

Why? "cause that's the way most folks look at power to weight comparisons.

MOPAR small-block: '71 roadrunner engine - expect it to be 500hp. Fiberglass hood, fenders, rear 1/4 panels, rear deck (Pantera Style), sideskirts, & bumpers/spoiler/rear ground effects. Plastic fuel cell. Aluminum radiator. Hope to have it down to 2,000 lbs. ;^p ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!