92 Loyal wagon i have had it with it

Just curious but was the axle nut torqued to something like 150 pounds everytime the hub was replaced?

"johninKY" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

i did not have a torque gauge so i can not answer how much it had on it. it was as tight as i gould get it.the bolts had jumped threads and loosened one flew off while driving I bought extra cone, and flat washers as well as bolt because it chewed them pretty bad the bolts would jump threads.

On the axle nut there is a flange that you need to indent with a hammer and chisel to keep the axle nut secure. Did you do that. A properly secured axle nut will not jump the theads..

And, if it's the style that uses the indented flange nut, that nut should be replaced each time one takes it off for best results (yeah, I know, a lot of people skimp and don't do it!) My '90 Loyale uses a castellated nut with cotter pin (the pin should be replaced each time, too) so I don't know what style's on the '92.

Another possibility is the actual threads on the stub axle were damaged (partially stripped, rusted, worn cuz someone DIDN'T torque the nut properly at one time?) which makes it impossible for the nut to hold torque. And a torque wrench isn't THAT expensive compared to damaged parts, and safety problems, from inadequate torque. 147 ft/lbs, which is the minimum my book calls for, is a pretty fair amount of torque, applied easily only with a goodly sized breaker bar or torque wrench. I seriously doubt I could come close with a regular sized ratchet or wrench.

Sounds to me like a rather minor problem to diagnose and cure, worth investigating, rather than getting rid of the car.

Rick

Those axle nuts are a bear to remove. 1/2" drive stuff just won't do as the breaker bar and/or socket will break before the nut loosens. (Wonder how I know this?) I use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar and 5 feet of pipe as a cheater bar to remove/torque that nut. An impact wrench will alos do the job. Point is it takes a lot of torque to keep everything in place. You're eating those hubs because the axle nut is loose enough that the axle walks in the hub.

"johninKY" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

thank you all for your comments and advice though i have done much of what was said save a few things. it has to be replaced again the first time i did it i followed the book instructions. I used a big cresent wrench and a 4 foot bar with all 300 pounds of me torqing on it. I constantly checked it for play and any noies i heard i check it completely the cotter pin in place and not any disernable play in the wheel yet still it chewed the hub 3 mothes later it needed to be replaced again the second time i was more scrutinizing i put lock tight on the thread greased the hub and put my self on top of the cheater bar and agian in 3 months needed to be replaced.

i do not want to fix it again. it is repairable but i dont want to do it .