Industrial engine valve job

It will run just fine with the setting recommended for all type 1 engines: 0.15mm

The difference in valve clearance you mention is not great enough to make noticeable difference in idle speed or the way the engine runs.

0.10mm is acceptable, but barely. Use it only if you adjust your valves regularly (like, at every oil change)

Jan

No Matter what engine you have you can rty any setting down to 0 as long as you don;t go over that. Once the engine wamrs, the tolerance increases, so no harm should be done at 0 as long as you are DAMN certain that you have not gone negative on tolerance.. If you go negative your valves will not shut and there will be all kinds of power problems and possible damage if too much negative.

Remember, the valves are set to allow proper valve operation at temp, so as long as you understand the relationship of all the material expansion and growth as the engine warms up, you can make minor adjustments to the factory specs to get different results to work with your needs.Are you using the engine for industrial purposes or are you using it in a BUG/BUS/KG???? This will also need to be taken into consideration. If your not going to run the vehicle at a continuous higher RPM then the industrial settings and specs might not apply to your engine needs.

This would also indicate there are other problems.

None of this addresses "which" engine, but likely applies somewhere in deciding what to do about the tolerance setting.

Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB®

It's is not, it isn't ain't, and it's it's, not its, if you mean it is. If you don't, it's its. Then too, it's hers. It isn't her's. It isn't our's either. It's ours, and likewise yours and theirs. -- Oxford University Press, Edpress News

Thanks Jan, I think i will leave it this way then, for now, and try to find out why it's not running for the 100% . I'l check the sparkplugs and ignition too. Is there a place where i can find some info about industrial engines??

Cheers, Roger

"Jan Anderss>

Other problems...? any in particular Or are there a bundle of them..............?

Are you able hook me up on a site where i can find WHICH engine i have :-)

Roger

Your engine will have a different dizzy(if still original), swap for a SVDA and it will be more driveable(does the carb have a vacuum inlet? The carb is likely to be set differently than a regular T1 engine of the same year used in a car, copy the car spec's. Not a 100% sure about the next, there might be a different camshaft in that engine, do a search online, Bob Hoover might be able to set you straight(search for his writings).

J.

I have a VW book that has a great t-shooting section for the standard Beetle up to and including the 1600. It doesn't have anything about Industrial engines at all. I do believe that your best suggestion has already been made and covers the disributor and possible cam differences................... If you've been reading the group very long you'll remember that my wife did some cleaning just before Christmas and I haven't been able to find any of my VW repair guides since,......................I am currently bidding on ebay items.........we'll see how I do there. One of the books I have ( I hope it's still here somewhere) , I have not seen a duplicate of anywhere. It's a pink Chiltons book covering up to 71 I think........may have been 72, but a really good book to work with in my times of need ( of course this one was always used with others for reference materials). Sorry I'm not much help in specific terms. I hope *any* of what I have offered is useful.

Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB®

It's is not, it isn't ain't, and it's it's, not its, if you mean it is. If you don't, it's its. Then too, it's hers. It isn't her's. It isn't our's either. It's ours, and likewise yours and theirs. -- Oxford University Press, Edpress News

Did you check the timing?

I believe Berg states in one of his writeups that from cold the clearance first decreases and then increases as the various engine parts warm up. When everything is fully warm you're back where you started, but, if he is right, you really don't want to set them any lower than the spec, because they will likely go negative sometime during warmup.

The problem is that not all of the engine parts warm up at the same rate. I'm sure we can all imagine that it takes longer for a pushrod to warm up than it does for a cylinder, for example. Add that to the fact that these different parts also have different thermal coefficients of expansion and the picture gets pretty complicated.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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I would torque my heads before I went any further.

...................Very good information Jim. I've read the same thing somewhere in the past but I don't remember whether it was Gene Berg. Maybe my source learned about it from him. When I was running chrome-moly pushrods, I searched for archives on this topic and came across this information which prevented me from making the mistake of listening to those who thought that chrome-moly's could be run with a tighter than stock valve lash.

Thanks guys,

This surely helps.

I have a 30-pict-1 carb sitting on it with an vacuum inlet. Normally the engine runs great but after setting the valve clearance (at

0.2mm) the engine runs slightly worse than before. After wondering and brainstorming (?) the whole lot, i thought i check the oil again. I topt it a week ago and totally forgot i topt it a tiny bit too much!!! This probably will do more harm than good so..........Next.....

-I will check the sparkplugs and if nesesary replace them,

-I'll try to check the timing...

-If needed change the contact points and clean out the distributer (again)

-And i might even torque the heads.

But what is a dizzy? And what does SVDA mean??? I dunno when but when done and done right i let you all know!

Thanks again Roger

On Mon, 16 Feb 2004 22:22:37 +0100, "Bug59" scribbled this interesting note:

Do a little research. Read up on the subject here:

here: John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

-it's what you get when you are overwhelmed by all the technical lingo in a Usenet newsgroup after you ask a question about VW engines :)

dizzy = short for dis-tri-bu-tor :)

Single vacuum, dual advance distributor. Came stock in later model beetles. Has both vacuum and centrifugal timing advance mechanisms.

Jan

What DO you do in this case? Since the steel pushrods will certainly expand less than the alum ones they replaced I'd expect you to want to tighten up the cold clearances somewhat, but how much is the big question.

What did you do, how did you come to your conclusion, and how satisfied were you with the result?

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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................I followed Berg's advice in his writings and left them at .006". Then after a while, I read even further and realized that I didn't really need the chrome-moly's so then I installed some stock aluminum ones. The PO had installed the chrome-moly's for whatever reason, I'm not sure. I've seen less lash changes during adjustments with the std. aluminum rods. I've never gone past 5k rpms but I do drive it pretty hard.

.............Right now, I'm waiting for some new level 3 heads from Aircooled.Net. I want to get rid of these Berg semi-hemis that run too hot. While I'm at it I'm going to install the 118 grind WebCam, new bearings, check the case & oil pump, etc. The L-Jetronic FI and FI style exhaust is staying. It's full-flowed with the Berg remote filter set-up with a new case by the PO about 12k miles ago with machine-in 88's and fully balanced 69mm counter-weighted crank-heavy pulley-lightened flywheel-std. pressure plate. The compression is still very good with no oil consumption and hopefully I won't find any surprises when I crack the case.

..............What's your suggestion on the pushrods Jim? I like the quieter aluminum ones but I still have the chrome-molys if I wanted to put them back in. This engine has 911 adjusting screws, clearanced std. rocker arms and solid Berg rocker shafts on shimmed stands with single HD springs. I think the new heads are going to come with the single HD springs as well.

Tim, could you point me to the article this was in? I have the whole 801 set and don't remember reading anything like this.

Max

...................I said that I don't know where I read it. It was Jim who recalled getting this information from Berg's writings. I did save my source in a folder but it's on my old hard drive that doesn't work (won't boot up). Any computer geniuses out there who'd like to try to get it working?

The answer is all in the paragraph you wrote just above. From what I can see your valve train is pretty much stock and you stick to the stock RPM range. Output power has no effect on pushrod strain, so stock pushrods should be just fine. If you're worried, pull them out occasionally and inspect them to see if they show brite rings around them anywhere.

If so, they have been rubbing on something. This would either be a bent or dented pushrod tube, or a pushrod which had been flexing enough to contact some part of its pushrod tube. If you're careful during assembly to check the tubes for bends and dents when you install them, and then install them without bending anything, then the latter explanation is the only one.

If you never see the brite rings, your pushrods are probably just fine. I only use the stock ones, just because they are the only ones that let me be confident in the valve adjustment.

You might need the steel pushrods if you went to multiple valve springs, lumpier cam, ratio rockers, or higher RPMs, but I do the same thing you've done.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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