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New bug owner tryig a rebuild...Help !

Hi folks !

I have had my first bug for almost six months now. Made the mistake of letting a friend set the timing and cooked cylinder #3. ( Shatterd is more like if :(. So, instead of paying some shmoe down here 1000 bucks to install a questionable rebuilt 1600, I decided ( with the help of Mr. Muir ) to drop the engine and do my own top end rebuild.

So all is progessing well, and I have read this group pretty thouroghly, but I cannot seem to find the answer to these probably obvious questions.

One: If I do not use a gasket on the Heads, do I need an adhesive of some sort, and if so what ?

Two: Exactly were does that extra stud that is long actually go ? I assume from the posts on #3, but which hole ? Top left ? Bottom ?

Thanks, and a appoligize for my ignorance, but I have to know before the assembly.

Thanks... Trey.

BTW: This is great fun !

:)

Reply to
trey
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paper gasket between cylinder barrels and case

no gasket between cylinder barrels and heads... follow muir's instructions about grinding barrels into heads.

extra stud? You'll have to provide pictures or describe what you are talking about

dont forget to put the tin between the cylinders before you install pushrod tubes + head

Reply to
jboothbee

Sorry for the confusion, I was a little overexited to find this group.

1st off, it is a 1970 bug, single port.

I have seven short studs and nine long ones. Cant fingure out what to do with long stud #9. Does this help ? thanks !

Trey.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Reply to
trey

You can leave them out and just use sealant. Between cylinder and case, is about the only place where you could use silicone sealant. Study the sealant issue a little more to find out what works best, out of the products that are available to you. I use Mahle cylinder sealant everywhere. The same manufacturer as the better piston/cylinder kits..

You can use some sort of sealant here too, I use Mahle again, but only apply a VERY thin coat. If the heads are machined (flycut) to get a smooth straight surface as they SHOULD be prior to installation, they don't really need any sealant.

9 long, 7 short. Picked this up from his other message.

The extra long one goes on the TOP LEFT hole on cylinder #3. The hole is deeper than the others, and not threaded until deeper in there.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Thanks so much y'all. Thats what I needed. I think I have enuf info on torque, so I will let you guys know how well a non-mechanic can pull this off !

Trey.

Reply to
trey

I *HIGHLY* recommend you buy "How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine". I use it all the time.

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Hi folks !

Reply to
Mike Fritz

About the extra long stud...if your engine has case savers installed (steel inserts installed in case for cyl head studs) properly, the upper left(as you face it, the upper rearmost) #3 hole is countersunk deeper than the others. This is to prevent the insert from causing the case to crack in the bell housing, that area being a weak spot.

jc

Reply to
jbclem

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