oh, BOTHER.

well, ran into a snag tonight and sat on the side of the road for about 45 minutes. now i'm home and a bit befuddled.

i previously yanked the engine (1600dp upright in a '76 camper bus) and replaced the heads, all clutch components, rear main seal, cam plug, tranny shaft seal, air cleaner, intake, exhaust, alternator, distributor (acn svda with compufire), plugs and wires. i replaced the braided fuel lines and moved the fuel filter under the tank. lotsa other small stuff, too.

spent the entire afternoon/evening getting everything working; sounded/felt/acted great. to test went about 6 miles via country roads, two exits down the highway. got on the highway to come back at higher speed, did great for a few miles and felt the engine miss. then again. then backfire, and the engine was dead. couldn't start it by popping the clutch while coasting. turned over fine, just didn't fire.

turned on the blinkers, got out the flashlight. checked the wires. checked the fuel line. checked for leaks underneath. popped the distributor cap - the rotor wasn't free (didn't pop outta gear), all contacts still looked brand new. the distributor wouldn't turn, so timing hadn't drifted. no funny smells other than the new exhaust baking. got back in, started right up. ???

drover about a mile. same thing happened again, minus the backfire, within

100 yards of my exit. less than 2 miles from the house. rechecked some of the original stuff, crawled underneath and found gas in the filter. waited 10 minutes and hit the switch, no go. crank but no fire. figured it must be electrical - possibly the (new) coil, (new) distributor, or (new) magnetic points replacement. called the wife to bring me the old distributor, an extra flashlight, and a gatorade. why it restarted once before kinda baffled me.

wife showed up, i put her in the front seat to hit the switch so that i could yank the coil wire and check for spark. i ran her through the steps (she's very much an automatic minivan-type person) and when she hit the switch for practice it started right up. she didn't even give it gas - it just started up and idled perfectly. kissed her, kicked her out and got on the road asap hoping to make it home before it quit again. thankfully, i did.

so now i'm thinking it's either heat related or possibly fuel starvation. i have an oil temp dipstick sending unit, and know the engine wasn't overly hot. but i've had a fuel pump go out on me with almost identical symptoms on my 73 super. the bus has an engine from a 74 super. i surmise that possibly the pump got hot and couldn't keep the fuel going; either gas gravity-fed back toward the engine while stopped, or the fuel pump cooled off enough to work and get me home. either of those make any sense? anything else i should be looking at?

supposed to go camping first thing in the morning - guess i'll have to miss BOTHER (Buses On THE River) this year. krikey.

the good news, at least as far a i can tell ... the acn svda seemed to definitely give more pep than previously; i could tell a big difference at lower rpms (no hesitation at all) and the new clutch certainly grabs better than the one it replaced. i'm looking forward to getting a better feel for the svda distributor - the bus is quite underpowered with the little 1600 but it feels like a whole different bus now that it actually goes when i hit the gas.

i called the mechanic, who will be on his way to my place tomorrow morning. if we can positively id and fix the problem, i plan to take off for BOTHER. if the situation is iffy at all, i'm staying home and will probably work instead. and that will suck, of course.

Reply to
Dewey Hylton
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are you talking about what gives the carb heat? if so, how would that provide my symptoms? ambient temperature was roughly 70 degrees f, certainly not very cold.

Reply to
Dewey Hylton

Nah.

If it was indeed fuel starvation, the engine would *not* have started right up when wifey cranked it. It would have taken

10 seconds or so of cranking for the pump to deliver enough fuel to the carb bowl.

I would be suspicious of an ignition-related failure. Put the stock ignition back in (including an old coil) and take for a drive.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

A plugged heat riser would not cause stalling problems like those described. Sounds like a fuel issue to me....just enough fuel is getting into the lines to start up and run for a while, the fuel gets used, and it stalls out. This could cause backfiring too, as the engine leans out from starvation. Is it fuel injected?

~Anthony

Reply to
Anthony

... and of course you would be correct! again. :)

the problem was my doing, and i found it myself. it just took a second set of eyeballs to get me looking in the correct location.

i have a berg oil temp sensing dipstick that connects to the oil pressure switch; when the temp reaches its setpoint (~225F) it connects to ground and causes the oil light to come on. works like a champ.

despite my correctly labeling every wire in the engine compartment, i still somehow managed to connect this wire to the wrong location and when the temp switch closed, i was grounding out the negative side of the coil. no input, no output - the coil wasn't firing if the oil was hot. or at least that's how i interpreted its non-operation.

GO FIGURE.

once again, thanks for all the input.

Reply to
Dewey Hylton

ROTFLMAO !! Good one! Thanks for clearing up the mystery. Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

glad someone got some enjoyment outta that one. as you can imagine, i wasn't very thrilled with myself at that point.

but hey - you're supposed to stop when the oil light comes on, right? i reckon this is one way to make that MANDATORY.

Reply to
Dewey Hylton

Excellent idea! :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

you can laugh about it now, though, right? :)

that is hilarious. Sounds like a good system though if you could fine tune it to trigger when the engine is actually in danger. ;)

Reply to
Seth Graham

I found a quick way to check for spark. Just buy a set of those Aurora

8.5mm wires...

They don't come with distributor boots long enough to completely cover the copper terminals that are pushed into the cap. Add a CDI to really boost up the voltage and just reach for the distributor while someone cranks it. Your nutz will light up like a cheap test light...

$%&@# wires...

RT

Reply to
Raymond Lowe

Just as I was about to relate a similar tale from my Baja years ago(that sucker stranded me 3 times!) that was remedied by correcting a loose connector on the coil, you found the problem.

Feels good to find and fix it, don't it? (You any good with CIS by any chance? I'm elbow-deep in a QSW parts car that won't run at the moment).

Some folks love the GB dipsticks, some don't-I say what's wrong with cheap insurance?

You just found a better way to use it-hehehe...

Greg who is still trying to figure out how to jack up a Baja and run a QSW under it-it would be UNSTOPPABLE!

P.S. I think early Porsche 914's(really a VW-donning my Nomex drawers now) used a similar arrangement-as I recall if they ran hot, they would shut off too.

Reply to
Greg Smith

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